Sostituzione sensore Home/Touch ID nell'iPhone 8

Scritto Da: Adam O'Camb

Commenti: 142

Sostituzione sensore Home/Touch ID nell'iPhone 8

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

55 minuti

Introduzione

Il "pulsante" home dell'iPhone 8 è in realtà un sensore a stato solido che comprende anche la funzionalità Touch ID (riconoscimento impronta digitale).

La maggior parte dei pulsanti home sostitutivi non funzionerà, quindi verifica tutto con cura prima di iniziare la tua riparazione. Il pulsante home originale del tuo iPhone è accoppiato singolarmente in fabbrica alla scheda logica: senza la procedura di calibrazione proprietaria di Apple, perfino un pulsante home originale proveniente da un altro iPhone non funzionerà. Per sistemare un pulsante home guasto, dovresti installare un pulsante home di tipo universale realizzato appositamente. Nota che questi ricambi assolvono solo al ruolo di pulsante; il Touch ID non funzionerà.

Se stai sostituendo uno schermo rotto, puoi usare questa guida per rimuovere e trasferire, con cautela, il tuo pulsante home originale funzionante sul nuovo schermo, conservando così tutte le funzionalità, incluso il Touch ID.

Nel corso di questa procedura, per evitare di sforzare o strappare i cavi del display, la cosa migliore e di staccare completamente il gruppo schermo prima di iniziare le riparazioni sul sensore home/Touch ID. D'altra parte, se ti senti sicuro del fatto tuo, puoi saltare la sezione relativa al gruppo display di questa guida e andare direttamente a quella relativa al sensore home/Touch ID.

Strumenti

Ricambi

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Vedi di avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere oltre questo passo, altrimenti dovrai prestare attenzione ad evitare esposizioni a liquidi dopo aver rimontato il tuo iPhone senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

An. Jahnke - 27/12/20

I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

Johnny Emrica -

That’s a great idea thank you

Mohamed Dekkiche -

Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

Bill Maher -

I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.

tripmusic -

Passo 2

I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.
Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.
Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.
Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.
Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.
Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare un superficie più aderente.

Passo 3

Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.
Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.
Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.

Passo 4

Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma troppo calore può danneggiare lo schermo e la batteria interna, quindi procedi con attenzione.
Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.
Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.
Se l'Anti-Clamp non dovesse formare un'apertura sufficientemente ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola un quarto di giro.
Non girare più di un quarto di giro a volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.
Salta i tre passaggi successivi.

it looks like a....

Gergely Soki -

Passo 5

I tre passaggi successivi mostrano come separare lo schermo utilizzando una ventosa.
Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.
Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

John Barker -

Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

tripmusic -

The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

John -

I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

John Noble -

No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

John Noble -

Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

John Noble -

. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

John Noble -

Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

Matt C -

Passo 6

Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home per assicurare un adeguato sigillo tra la ventosa e il vetro frontale.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

Passo 7

Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.
Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.
L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione lo schermo è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

dantegd -

The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

thewrytstf - 12/02/24

sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

Andi Tony -

I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

Sharaf Kazi -

Passo 8

Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.
Non cercare di forzare il distacco del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in posizione da clip di plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Passo 9

Ci sono dei cavi flessibili delicati lungo il bordo destro del tuo iPhone. Non inserire il tuo plettro lì, dato che potresti danneggiare i cavi flessibili.

I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

Gib Jeffries -

Passo 10

Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.
Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm: potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Passo 11

Tira dolcemente la ventosa per sollevare il lato inferiore del display.
Non sollevare il display più di 15° per evitare il rischio di stirare o strappare i cavi piatti di connessione del display.
Tira la linguetta per staccare la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

Passo 12

Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

wendyhoward -

Passo 13

Fai scorrere lievemente il gruppo display verso il basso (allontanandolo dal bordo superiore del telefono) per liberarlo dalle clip che lo collegano al case posteriore.

Passo 14

Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.
Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.
Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

Mangled Jargon -

Passo 15

Rimuovi quattro viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del cavo inferiore del display alla scheda logica, delle seguenti lunghezze:
Due viti da 1,3 mm
Due viti da 2,8 mm
Nel corso dell'intera procedura, tieni traccia di ognuna delle tue viti in modo che, durante il rimontaggio, ciascuna di esse torni esattamente dove si trovava in precedenza. Mettere una vite al posto sbagliato può causare danni permanenti al telefono.
Rimuovi la staffa.

Not Y000 this time haha

Easy Repair - 19/03/18

can same length screws mixed up?

Brook布魯克 - 21/11/19

It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

Arthur Shi - 21/11/19

using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

Mark Ordaz - 25/04/20

I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

William Mitchell - 04/05/20

Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

John Toth - 13/10/20

Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

O D -

took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

Karen Flowers -

It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

Matti Haveri -

can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

antonio -

Passo 16

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della batteria sollevandolo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Piega lievemente da un lato, per distanziarlo dalla scheda logica, il cavo del connettore per evitare che questo possa fare contatto con lo zoccolo e quindi alimentare il telefono nel corso della tua riparazione.

Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

Gareth - 23/08/20

I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

Jeff -

So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

John M - 02/12/20

I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

Kenneth Moore - 12/05/21

If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

Matti Haveri -

This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

Karen Flowers -

The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

Dan Knight

daniel -

That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

Mangled Jargon -

I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

Robert Ast -

Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

Matti Haveri -

The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

Steve Trotman -

Passo 17

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore inferiore del display dal suo alloggiamento.
Per ricollegare connettori a pressione come questo, premi su un lato finché senti il clic di bloccaggio, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere dal centro. Il connettore, se è disallineato anche di pochissimo, può piegarsi, danneggiandosi irreparabilmente.

I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

Ross Mckellar -

You need to buy a new screen

conrad veldhouse -

이렇게 친절하게 정성스럽게 분해도 올리신 분은 처음이네요 진정 프로/ 기타 나머지 잡것들은 대충 올려 돈이나 벌어보자는 업자num들/ 배터리 교체하는 유툽 영상보다...업자가 올린 ...배터리 교체는 따라했으나 그후 배터리 교체와는 전혀 상관 없는 액정 뒤판을 jo빤다고 설명도 없이 뜯어 그것까지 따라하다 액정이 나가버려 지금 무주공산에서 홀로 검색하다 이걸 보게됨

평생놀아난다 - 15/01/24

Passo 18

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il secondo cavo inferiore del display.

Passo 19

Rimuovi le tre viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che tengono in posizione la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.
Rimuovi la staffa.

If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

Thomas Tritt - 30/03/19

This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.

Douglas Walker -

ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

Mine too? Any help?

George Waller - 29/05/21

These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

Niklas Brammer - 19/01/21

Passo 20

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore.

Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

Regal Carveiro -

Regal see Sostituzione fotocamera frontale e cavo sensori iPhone 8 Sostituzione fotocamera frontale e cavo sensori iPhone 8

xint -

It’s of a piece with the front camera.

xint -

Passo 21

Rimuovi il gruppo schermo.
In fase di riassemblaggio, fermati qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo attorno ai bordi del display.

Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

John - 20/05/20

Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

Gary Berman - 06/04/21

I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

Matti Haveri -

I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

Matt D - 30/05/21

Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

Howard -

I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

Hein Blöd -

Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

Lynn Thomas -

Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

Steve Trotman -

For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.

tripmusic -

In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.

But the replacement worked.

Peter Benson -

Passo 22

Rimuovi le quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il sensore home/Touch ID:
Una vite da 1,2 mm
Tre viti da 1,3 mm.
Rimuovi la staffa.
In fase di rimontaggio, stai attento non serrare troppo queste viti, altrimenti il tuo pulsante home potrebbe non funzionare più.

Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000

Andreas Veeser - 08/06/20

If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

Andy Knapp - 08/08/20

Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.

Paula Lofland - 10/09/20

On my iPhone, these were Y00 screws, not Y000

Jim Glenys -

Dutch version speaks of one 1,3 mm screw, but has 3 of those screws.

Fonne Van Gils -

There is a difference between Y00 and Y000. I realized this after unknowingly trying the Y000 and damaging the tip of the screwdriver, as the metal is apparently softer than the screw. I was able to use the corner of a flat metal file to make the cheap Y0000 work (which came with the replacement kit) by making 3 adjustments: 10 filing down the tip, 2) filing the shoulders to make the tips more pointed, and 3) cleaning out the 3 channels to remove burrs from the tip edges.

Robert Lanzafame - 20/08/22

Passo 23

Usa uno strumento di apertura per far leva sotto il bordo sinistro del connettore del cavo del pulsante home per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolino.
Se l'intero connettore inizia a sollevarsi ma non si stacca, premi con l'estremità piatta del tuo spudger sul cavo in corrispondenza del bordo superiore del connettore, mentre allo stesso tempo sollevi il bordo sinistro del connettore. Stai attento a non danneggiare il cavo o il connettore, perché potresti disabilitare permanentemente il sensore.

To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.

forhereyesonly - 05/01/20

I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.

Cool_Breeze - 04/03/20

See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.

Kristina Graham - 13/09/20

Be extra careful with this step: it wasn’t clear to me from the description that the connector wrapped from underneath to connect, nor did my set come with picks. I used a blade from the wrong side, inadvertently (but way too easily) severing the connector and destroying the function of the home button and thus the entire phone.

Jennifer Indeliclae - 23/05/21

Be careful, I initially didn’t found the connector and nearly ripped the cable. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate. Found a YouTube video with very good close ups for this part (go cell phone repair detailed version)

Svenja Büsing -

I initially didn’t found the connector and cable and nearly broke it. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate, I needed YouTube video with good close ups to understand the setup.

Svenja Büsing -

Passo 24

Il riscaldamento dell'area attorno al sensore home/Touch ID aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il suo delicato cavo, rendendo più facile e sicura la rimozione.
Capovolgi il gruppo display. Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo sul bordo inferiore del display per circa 90 secondi per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.
Non surriscaldare il display. Deve diventare lievemente troppo caldo per poter essere toccato a lungo.

The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

forhereyesonly - 05/01/20

Passo 25

Usa con delicatezza un plettro di apertura per separare l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display.

My original assembly broke trying to follow this step carefully. :(

Ann - 04/12/20

This one’s kind of hard to reconnect. Just remember to be gentle, take your time, and use your hands so that you can really feel it out.

Johnny Emrica -

Keep in mind, there’s a tiny rubber ring gasket between the Touch ID button and the display. In my experience when removing the button, the gasket stuck partly to the the button and partly to the display. I gently removed the part that was sticking to the display and guided it back on the button. If you’re missing that gasket it won’t be waterproof.

Sam Tropper -

I used a heat gun set at 300*F to heat up the glass side for about 20 seconds and on connector side for about 10 seconds (touchscreen was a little too hot to the touch). Pulled connector with fingers and pried off with plastic tool.

anonymous 6745 -

Passo 26

Rimuovi il gruppo sensore home/Touch ID facendolo passare dal lato anteriore del display.
In fase di rimontaggio, per prima cosa fai passare il cavo attraverso il foro dalla parte superiore del display.
La tua parte sostitutiva potrebbe avere delle viti Y000 supplementari già installate vicino al pulsante home. Rimuovi le viti non necessarie in modo da poter rimettere al suo posto la staffa del pulsante home.

Instructions were great. Putting the connections back is a bit of a hassle, but patience is your friend. Phone is up and running. Thanks iFixit.

pwpfef01 - 19/01/21

Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?

Todd Skobjak - 31/01/21

Hi Todd!

I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

Arthur Shi - 02/02/21

They charged you $70 bucks for a new replacement screen for an iphone8 and it didn't even work right that's crazy they are over charging people considering my wife only payed $23 for a new replacement screen kit that comes with the new screen and everything else you need to change it out plus a extra screen protector and I just finished replacing the screen and so far so good no green vertical lines running down my screen. I like ifixit because they show me how to fix what I need to fix but I don't think I will be buying anything from them anytime soon.

Lincoln -

I greatly support Ifixit… but.. for me the same story as Todd Skobjak. Put in the new screen. Touch button is not found. Retried with screws loosened and refitting the plug. Nothing. Put the old screen back and the touch button worked again. So.. something with the new provided screen from Ifixed must be the case. I'll also get in touch with customer support.

Ifixed: not only check the screen but also the cable to the touch button!

Ton Vaes -

What’s the trick here?

Getting an “unable to activate Touch ID” after replacing the home button and a new screen - somewhat similar to that above. Any troubleshooting steps/resolution? I loosened, tightened screws holding the assembly, no effect.

schaferjon -

The button is paired with the motherboard. if you change the screen, always attempt to retrieve the original button.. otherwise touchid will not be available

Bill McNamara -

The instructions for this home/touch button repair were spot on! The special tip in red for Step 19 was extremely useful because that was exactly what I encountered while attempting to remove the original home/touch button from the original front screen. Step 21 and accompanying photos were a life saver as well, but this process did require heating the screen with my wife’s hair dryer several times to be able to gently pry up the adhesive for the home/touch button ribbon without ripping it to pieces. And yes my phone worked great after completing this repair. Time spent meant money saved and a personal satisfaction and pride in a job well done. Thank you Team iFixit!

Jeffery Anderson -

the steps to move the front camera and speaker to the new screen are missing, right?

martijn.klabbers -

do you really neec to replace the home button?

ineedtoreplacemyphonescreen -

Conclusione

Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla parte nuova prima di installarla.

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto.

Autore

Adam O'Camb

Membro da: 11/04/15

195052 Reputazione

11 commenti

Very good guide! Thank you for NOT have made a shaky video, which is popular nowadays. This kind of information is very much better presented with text and a series of hi-res pictures!

Now I know where to order stuff when I need it!

All the best,

Dr. Robert Svensson

term - 16/09/19

Great Fix It Guide Adam…..I would only add one suggestion to your instructions. To keep all the iPhone screws organized & separated by size I use a Sharpie marker to color code the screw to the bracket. It worked great! Thanks again!

Walter Smith - 04/07/20

my home button is really solid and i cant figure out why, it refuses to activate, and when i press the home button to recover it wont work, please help, ive replace it 6 times and ive checked every step properly and still nothing please help

tycleggnmum - 22/10/20

It’s possible that you put one of the 1.3mm screws into the 1.2mm hole. That hole is right under the button.

Donald Fournier -

I have replaced the screen and it works, but with installing a new home button , the home button does not function!

Daryoush Namiranian - 01/11/20

I just completed this guide and did everything by the instructions ( I believe) and the new home button still isn’t working : ( It was a cheap attempt thankfully, but I’m not sure where to go from here. I don’t know iPhones super well. If anybody else has seen this, let me know. Does it need drivers or something? Fresh iOS install? I’m not sure.

Joshua Batchelor - 17/02/21

It's important to say that the home button is “married” with the Mainboard.

Julian - 04/05/21

Excellent instruction. Clear, precise. Comments of others must definitively be read to complement ifixit.

Alain -

Hello, I’ve recently completed a different replacement, of the front sensor for my iPhone 8. Before doing this, my home button worked just fine, but after I completed this other replacement, it not longer works. I don’t believe that I damaged anything with the home button connection, but I don’t know why else it wouldn’t be working anymore. Does anyone have any suggestions?

shannontriller -

Hi,

I’ve just replaced the home button on a friends phone, but the button doesn’t respond every time. sometimes it does respond, little later is doesn’t. someone who knows what the issue can be?

thx

Fonne Van Gils -

I changed a display module and built in a new home button. It respond several times but after some tries it does no longer respond.

Any help?

foxtrott_huebner -