Introduzione
Use this guide to test the belt switch on your Whirlpool Dryer and replace it if necessary.
The belt switch is an important safety feature that shuts down the entire dryer if the drive belt breaks. Without the clothes tumbling, it's possible for the airflow to be obstructed and for the dryer to overheat.
When this switch fails, the dryer may refuse to run.
This guide will work for most Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.
This repair is rated as difficult, mainly because of the large number of disassembly steps needed. You will be almost completely disassembling your dryer. This isn't particularly difficult if you're an experienced repairer, but it's not something we recommend attempting on your first try.
Strumenti
-
-
Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
-
Remove the top panel from the machine.
-
-
-
Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
-
Unplug the connector.
-
-
-
Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
-
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
-
Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.
-
-
-
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
-
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
-
-
-
Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
-
Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.
-
-
-
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
-
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.
-
-
-
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
-
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
-
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.
-
-
-
Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
-
Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.
-
-
-
Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
-
Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
-
Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.
-
-
-
Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
-
Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.
-
-
-
Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
-
Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
-
Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
-
-
-
Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.
-
While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.
-
-
-
Lift the blower cover slightly and slide it to free the tabs which hold it in place.
-
Remove the blower cover.
-
-
-
Move to the rear of the machine to access the drive shaft.
-
Hold the drive shaft with an adjustable wrench on the hex portion of the drum drive pulley.
-
-
-
Use a socket wrench with an extension bar and no socket to fit into the square hole on the blower wheel.
-
Turn the wheel clockwise (to the right) to free it enough to remove it by hand.
-
-
-
Rotate the blower wheel clockwise by hand until it's free from the motor shaft.
-
Remove the wheel from the blower housing.
-
-
-
Remove the sheet metal screw securing the vent pipe to the blower housing.
-
Remove the vent pipe by sliding it toward the rear of the dryer to free it from the blower housing.
-
-
-
Move the blower housing toward the front of the dryer about 1–2 inches to clear the motor shaft.
-
Lift the blower housing up and away to remove it.
-
-
-
Use a flat head screwdriver or a spudger to lift the connector locking clips.
-
Disconnect the connector by pulling it straight off.
-
-
-
Check the continuity between the switch wires while the idler pulley arm is down.
-
Next, test to see that the belt switch shows continuity when the idler pulley arm is raised.
-
The multimeter should read less than 1 Ω.
-
If the switch fails either of these tests, replace it. Go on to the next step.
-
-
-
Use one hand to press down on the motor retainer clip bump. This should make it easy to unhook the clip from the motor cradle mount.
-
While maintaining the downward pressure, use your other hand to unhook the clip from the motor cradle mount.
-
-
-
Lift the motor retainer clip off the motor and remove it.
-
Repeat the last two steps for the other motor clip.
-
-
-
Use a spudger, or small flathead screwdriver, to depress the first retaining tab on the belt switch.
-
Rotate the belt switch a small amount to keep the tab released.
-
-
-
Repeat the previous step for the other restraining tab.
-
This will allow you to slide the switch upward.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.