Whirlpool Dryer Motor Testing and Replacement

Scritto Da: Bill Gilbert

Commenti: 0

Whirlpool Dryer Motor Testing and Replacement

Difficoltà

Difficult

Passi

Tempo Necessario

3 - 5 ore

Introduzione

Use this guide to test the motor on your Whirlpool Dryer and replace it if necessary.

The motor turns the drum to tumble the laundry and drives the blower wheel to circulate air through your dryer.

If the motor fails, the dryer will not operate. Sometimes, the motor may hum but be unable to start. Since the motor is an expensive part, testing is recommended first.

This guide is rated as difficult not so much for the skill required as for the length of the guide and a few challenging steps, such as the lower front bulkhead.

This guide will work for most Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.

Strumenti

Passo 1

Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.
Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

Passo 2

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

Passo 3

Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

Passo 4

Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
Remove the top panel from the machine.

Passo 5

Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

Passo 6

Disconnect the drum light connector.

Passo 7

Remove the screws securing the control panel.

Passo 8

Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.
During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

Passo 9

Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
Unplug the connector.

Passo 10

Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.

Passo 11

Remove the screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

Passo 12

The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

Passo 13

Remove the cover plate screw.

Passo 14

Remove the cover plate.

Passo 15

Remove the screws securing the cord cables.
Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

Passo 16

Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.
Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

Passo 17

Remove the green ground screw.
Remove the cord terminal block screws.

Passo 18

Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

Passo 19

Remove the rear panel screws.
Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Passo 20

Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.

Passo 21

Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

Passo 22

During reassembly, perform the following:
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

Passo 23

Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

Passo 24

Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

Passo 25

Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

Passo 26

Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.
Disconnect the connector.

Passo 27

The blower cover is the round plate that serves as the inlet to the blower.
Unfasten the blower cover screw.

Passo 28

Lift the blower cover slightly and slide it to free the tabs which hold it in place.
Remove the blower cover.
The photos show the lower front bulkhead in place. The bulkhead doesn't affect the blower cover removal and reassembly.

Passo 29

Move to the rear of the machine to access the drive shaft.
Hold the drive shaft with an adjustable wrench on the hex portion of the drum drive pulley.
The threads on the blower wheel are left-hand threads. The wrench must be installed to the left of the pulley to keep it from rotating counterclockwise.

Passo 30

Use a socket wrench with an extension bar and no socket to fit into the square hole on the blower wheel.
Turn the wheel clockwise (to the right) to free it enough to remove it by hand.

Passo 31

Rotate the blower wheel clockwise by hand until it's free from the motor shaft.
Remove the wheel from the blower housing.

Passo 32

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

Passo 33

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

Passo 34

Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

Passo 35

Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.
Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

Passo 36

Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

Passo 37

Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

Passo 38

Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

Passo 39

Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

Passo 40

Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

Passo 41

Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.
Be careful during this procedure! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.
Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

Passo 42

Remove the screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

Passo 43

While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

Passo 44

Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.
While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.
During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

Passo 45

Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.
Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.
Note which end of the drum faces the front.
If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.
Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

Passo 46

This step shows the thermal fuse location and appearance.

Passo 47

Disconnect the two spade connectors attached to the thermal fuse.
Always remove wires by pulling on the connector, not the wire.

Passo 48

Disconnect the two spade connectors attached to the outlet thermistor.

Passo 49

Remove the sheet metal screw securing the vent pipe to the blower housing.
Remove the vent pipe by sliding it toward the rear of the dryer to free it from the blower housing.

Passo 50

Remove the sheet metal screws securing the blower housing.

Passo 51

Move the blower housing toward the front of the dryer about 1–2 inches to clear the motor shaft.
Lift the blower housing up and away to remove it.

Passo 52

If you are just removing the motor without testing it, skip the next three steps.
Use a flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to lift the connector locking clips. Make sure to release both the top and bottom clips.
Disconnect the connector by pulling it straight off.
Be sure to grip the connectors and not the wire when disconnecting.

Passo 53

You will need the wiring schematic for your dryer to figure out what terminals are for the start winding. Usually one of those terminals will be common with the run winding and will be connected to the belt switch.
For the next three steps, refer to the first image for the terminal numbering.
On our example machine, the terminal that is common between the main and start windings has the blue wire with the white connector at an angle (the only one).
Disconnect the common terminal.
Be sure to grip the connector and not the wire when disconnecting.

Passo 54

This step will require a multimeter. If you aren't familiar with how to use one, here is a guide that will help you.
Disconnect the wire that is connected to the start winding that you located on the schematic. On this machine, it is aligned with terminal 3.
Measure the resistance from the start winding wire to the common terminal shared between the start and run windings. Use the lowest resistance setting (usually Rx1) on your multimeter if you need to set it manually.
The value should be 2–5 Ω. If it's outside that range or OL, the motor is defective and needs to be replaced.

Passo 55

You will need the wiring schematic for your dryer to figure out what terminal is for the run winding. On our example machine it is aligned with terminal 5.
Disconnect the run winding wire.
Be sure to grip the connector and not the wire when disconnecting.
Measure the resistance from the run winding terminal to the common terminal shared with the start winding.
This reading should be 2–5 Ω. If it is outside this range, the motor is defective and should be replaced.

Passo 56

Disconnect the belt switch wire from the motor.

Passo 57

If it isn't already disconnected from checking the windings, disconnect the other belt switch wire from the motor.
Be sure to grip the connectors and not the wire when disconnecting.

Passo 58

During reassembly, refer to this photo for where to reconnect the wires.

Passo 59

The next steps will show how to replace the motor.
With one hand, press down on the motor retainer clip at the bump on the clip. This should make it easy to unhook the clip from the motor cradle mount.
While maintaining the downward pressure, use your other hand to unhook the clip from the motor cradle mount.