Aggiornamento hard drive SATA e RAM iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017)

Passo 1

Con il cardine libero di muoversi, l'iMac sarà sbilanciato e la lavorazione risulterà difficoltosa. Le riparazioni saranno più rapide e facili con un cuneo di supporto per iMac, ma potranno essere completate anche senza di esso.
Se intendi usare il Cuneo di cartone di supporto dell'iMac di iFixit, segui queste istruzioni di assemblaggio per montarlo.
Prima di iniziare a lavorare sull'iMac, scollega il computer dall'alimentazione e tieni premuto il pulsante di alimentazione per 10 secondi per scaricare i condensatori dell'alimentatore.
Fai molta attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualsiasi punto di saldatura esposto sulla parte posteriore dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda tenendola solo dai bordi.

The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

roberttrevellyan - 19/09/17

Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

Dan - 12/02/18

Here are a couple tips from me:

1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

jerrid_foiles - 31/03/19

Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

Sam Fung - 06/06/19

“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

Chris Hughes - 10/11/19

There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

Phil Tesone - 18/01/21

I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

Ernst -

While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

Ernst -

Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.

Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.

Where are the sensitive parts?

Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.

Froggy Manny - 23/03/23

Passo 2

Iniziare sulla parte sinistra del display, accanto al pulsante di alimentazione, inserire l'attrezzo per l'apertura dell'iMac nello spazio fra il pannello di vetro e il case posteriore.
Il perno sull'attrezzo per l'apertura dell'iMac impedisce di inserire la ruota troppo a fondo. Nel caso di utilizzo di un altro attrezzo, non inserirlo nel display per più di 0,95 cm, In caso contrario, si rischia di tranciare i cavi dell'antenna e provocare danni gravi.

Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

Richard Cook - 15/02/19

As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Sostituzione strisce adesive iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544

Alan Digby - 24/06/20

It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

Nikolay - 30/06/20

This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

Ernst -

You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).

Carl Schultz -

Merci pour ce conseil

bry nicolas -

Passo 3

Utilizzare l'attrezzo come una taglierina per la pizza: ruotarlo lungo lo spazio per tagliare la schiuma adesiva al centro.
Effettuare sempre una pressione con l'impugnatura dietro il disco tagliente. Tirando, il disco potrebbe uscire dall'impugnatura.
Far scorrere l'attrezzo lungo il lato sinistro del display.

Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

Moreau - 15/04/17

If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

plasticpool - 08/12/20

Passo 4

Continuare a far scorrere l'attrezzo attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro.

Ne pincez pas l’écran avec l’autre main. Vous exercez une pression inutile sur le verre et empêchez la roulette de couper le joint.

phfoglia -

Passo 5

Tagliare l'adesivo lungo il lato sinistro del display.

Passo 6

Continuare lungo la parte superiore del display.
È consigliabile far scorrere ripetutamente l'attrezzo avanti e indietro lungo la parte già tagliata, per fare in modo di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.

In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

arisnordico - 22/01/15

Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

dv1977 - 24/01/15

I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

djfanta - 28/05/15

Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

pzhivulin - 12/06/15

You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

kaserlik - 30/05/15

If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

pzhivulin - 12/06/15

omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

now fan runs like crazy...

Andrei Balotescu - 05/02/16

The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

Ernst -

Passo 7

Premere l'attrezzo attorno all'angolo superiore destro del display.

Passo 8

Far scorrere l'attrezzo verso il basso, lungo il lato destro del display.

Passo 9

Terminare l'applicazione dell'attrezzo per l'apertura nella parte inferiore del lato destro del display.
A questo punto, si consiglia di ripassare nuovamente l'attrezzo lungo tutto il display, per fare in modo di tagliare il più possibile l'adesivo.

Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

Noah Ralston - 19/07/18

Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.

Carl Schultz -

Passo 10

Sebbene l'attrezzo per l'apertura tagli la maggior parte dell'adesivo, il display sarà ancora leggermente attaccato al case. Occorre una scheda di plastica per liberare la parte restante dell'adesivo.
Poggiare l'iMac su un tavolo, rivolto verso l'alto.
A partire dall'angolo superiore destro dell'iMac, inserire una scheda di plastica fra il display e il telaio.
Fare attenzione a non inserire la scheda di plastica per più di 0,95 cm, in caso contrario si rischia di danneggiare i componenti interni.

this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

Edgar Broekema - 18/11/17

I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

Max Romano - 27/09/20

I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

Morgana Devina - 30/10/20

@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

Richard Giratd -

Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

Ernst -

Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

derekrobinson -

Passo 11

Ruotare delicatamente la scheda di plastica lateralmente per creare uno spazio fra il display e il telaio.
Eseguire movimenti lenti, facendo attenzione a non fare troppa pressione sul vetro del display, poiché occorre solo uno spazio di circa 0,63 cm.

This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

Cassio Machado - 17/09/16

Passo 12

Far scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare il resto dell'adesivo lungo l'angolo destro dell'iMac.
Occorre fermarsi prima della fotocamera iSight per non danneggiarla.

You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

Felix - 31/05/20

Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

Ernst -

Passo 13

Inserire la scheda di plastica nell'angolo superiore destro nuovamente e lasciarla in sede per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.

Passo 14

Inserire una seconda scheda di plastica nello spazio fra il display e il telaio, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac.

Passo 15

Ruotare delicatamente la scheda verso l'alto per aumentare leggermente lo spazio fra il display e il telaio.
Come sulla parte opposta, ruotare lentamente la scheda, per consentire la separazione dell'adesivo, senza esercitare una pressione eccessiva sul vetro del display.

Passo 16

Far scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermandosi nuovamente prima della fotocamera iSight.

Passo 17

Reinserire la scheda di plastica nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

Passo 18

Mantenendo entrambe le schede di plastica inserite vicino agli angoli come indicato, ruotarle delicatamente sui lati per aumentare lo spazio fra il display e il case.
In presenza di sezioni ancora incollate che non si separano, fermare la rotazione e utilizzare una delle schede per tagliare l'adesivo restante.
Iniziare a sollevare la parte superiore del display dal telaio.
Sollevare il display di pochi centimetri, poiché i cavi di alimentazione e dei dati sono ancora collegati alla scheda logica.

Passo 19

Solleva lo schermo abbastanza in alto da avere un accesso facile al connettore, ma non tanto da strappare i cavi e forzare i rispettivi connettori (alzalo di circa 20 cm).
Mantieni lo schermo con uno mano mentre con l'altra stacchi il cavo di alimentazione dello schermo .

It was difficult to remove this connection. I ended up having to gently pull-up vertically a little on the wire side to unsnap it about 1mm and then horizontally wiggle it out.

delacrj2 - 22/12/17

I had a difficult time removing this connection. I had to lift the wire-side about 1mm before it unsnapped and then carefully wiggle it out horizontally.

delacrj2 - 22/12/17

Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.

Jeremy Brainard - 19/04/19

This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).

The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.

Ernst -

be VERY careful and SLOW...take your time. These displays crack VERY easily when removing and they'll spider web on you. I've done probably 20 or so of these and cracked 3 being super careful.....ugh.

Faslane -

I found the best way to unplug this display power cable was to use my right hand, and the fingernails of my index finger and thumb to grab the ends of the tabs on either side of the connector, squeeze, and pull the connector out gently.

Phil McInnis -

i think the cable nearest the case edge is held in by friction and can be gently pulled, maybe with fingernails or a spudger. The next cable is held by a wire lever clip as described above it unlocks so the cable can be removed. These cables are also fiddly to re-insert, I didn't get one of them home and had no display after power-up, so at the end, don't re-seal the screen until tested.

Peter Taffs -

Passo 20

Continua a tenere lo schermo con una mano, sblocca la staffa metallica di ritenuta del cavo dati dello schermo.
Stacca con cautela il cavo dati dello schermo dalla sua presa nella scheda madre.
Assicurati di tirare il cavo dati dello schermo direttamente fuori della sua presa, mantenendolo parallelo alla scheda madre, per evitare di danneggiarlo.

Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?

Jeremy Brainard - 19/04/19

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTL...

That's the part I ordered for mine and it seems to work ok. I did make a point of contacting the seller and advising them of my requirement and they ensured I got the right part and it matches the description of the link. Bear in mind I bear no responsibility if yours does not work since I am just sharing what I did and what I ordered. Thanks.

Jim Stanford -

I also need that cable.

cameronjpu - 24/03/20

It's a little difficult to tell... but looking at the connection to the logic board on the video data cable, are the pins faced up or down?

On the display, same question since it appears you have to "twist" the cable during the reconnection step.

Jim Stanford - 09/05/22

For this particular cable, take a good look before pulling on anything. Plug is locked on its socket with a bracket. You can lift this bracket by holding the small, flat black plastic handle that is attached to it. If you're struggling to grab it, use the end of the pizza roller handle to lift it, or the tweezers. Cable then comes off by pulling parallel to the main board.

Froggy Manny -

How can I tell if either of this cable is bad? My iMac display won't turn on after reconnecting it. I'm using an external display and everything is working except for the iMac display. If I go to settings - display the built-in display is recognize. But again nothing shows up in the screen - not even the apple logo when turning it on.

Carlos Sosa -

Passo 21

Solleva il display in posizione quasi verticale.
A questo punto ci sarà sempre una striscia di adesivo nella parte inferiore del display che lo terrà incollato alla scocca come una cerniera. Puoi allentare questo adesivo muovendo il display su e giù per alcune volte.

The best way to remove the chin adhesive is to use the tabs at either end (there are two strips that run from each outside corner to near the centre). Carefully pull the tabs up and the strips should peel off.

Advance Technical Service - 03/04/19

Passo 22

Fa' molta attenzione a non toccare i conduttori del condensatore o le saldature esposte sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadrati in rosso).
Afferra la linguetta alle estremità di una delle strisce adesive sul bordo inferiore dello schermo e tira l'adesivo verso la parte superiore dell'iMac per rimuoverla.
Ripeti questo passo con l'altra striscia adesiva e rimuovila.
Se una delle strisce adesive si rompe prima di essere rimossa, usa una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

At step 21-22, releasing the adhesive strips from the bottom of the display, I noticed a tab on the outer end of each strip. Pull the tab to remove the whole strip, no need to mess around with the plastic cards!

roberttrevellyan - 19/09/17

Instead of the plastic cards, use the flat end of a spudger. Use it as scraper. Be careful as there are antennas mounted on the inside edge of the frame on the right side (facing you), and the top right (facing you). The original adhesive strips are on those as well. - ECJ

ECJohansen -

A little bit of hot air (eg. hair dryer) will help soften the adhesive. Use a piece of cardboard or equivalent if you want to avoid blowing hot air towards the electronics.

Be careful to remove absolutely everything - any remainder will create a bump and prevent your screen from sticking back to the frame when reassembling.

Froggy Manny -

A little bit of hot air (eg. hair dryer) will help soften the adhesive. Use a piece of cardboard or equivalent if you want to avoid blowing hot air towards the electronics.

Be careful to remove absolutely everything - any remainder will create a bump and prevent your screen from sticking back to the frame when reassembling.

Froggy Manny -

Passo 23

Solleva il display dalla scocca e rimuovilo dall'iMac.
Potrebbe essere necessario sollevare lentamente lo schermo da una parte per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.
Fai molta attenzione a maneggiare il display - è grande, pesante e fatto di vetro.
Dopo che l'adesivo è stato tagliato, non può essere riutilizzato per riattaccare il display. segui questa guida quando la tua riparazione sarà completa per sostituire le strisce adesive e assicurare il display alla scocca.

Après l'étape 23, j'ai suivi les instructions de la vidéo intitulée: Upgrade RAM in a mid-2017 21-inch iMac without complete disassembly.

Lien: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k9I7N9B...

J'ai pu upgrader la RAM en enlevant juste le ventilateur.

Koala -

Passo 24

Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips che tengono ferma la staffa di supporto inferiore:
Quattro viti da 3,2 mm
Una vite da 1,7 mm
Potresti dover rimuovere l'adesivo sul bordo inferiore dell'iMac per aver accesso alle viti.

I would recommend that those trying this have the project tray to contain all of the screws.

Mikkif - 30/03/20

2 notes for reassembly, carful with screws not to strip the heads as they are really really small, make note to cut a gap in the the adhesive over the whole for the microphone.

I managed to strip the head of one of the screws when putting it back in. So be carful with them when putting in / taking out. If you strip it on the way out you will need to take a fine drill and rill it out. Going back in, well as long as you never need to strip it down again not a problem.

The second problem is a real pain, you need to make sure to cut a gap in the adhesive just to the right of Center at the button to allow for the microphone opening. If you don’t, the adhesive tape will stop any real pick up on the Mic, so you just need to cut a small gap in it before putting on the screen. Unfortunately I didn’t find this out (or do my checked before sticking it all back down, so have to pull screen back off and reapply new adhesive with a cut out in it at an other time.

Andrew Taylor - 13/09/20

Refer her for more info on the mic / adhesive work around —> Muffled Microphone - iMac 21.5" (mid 2017) - Following Adhesive Strips

Andrew Taylor - 13/09/20

Passo 25

Rimuovi la staffa di supporto inferiore dalla scocca dell'iMac.

Keep this long, aluminium part very straight when pulling it away or you might bend it

Froggy Manny -

que pasa si no coloca esta pieza?

CARLOS -

Passo 26

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Torx T10 che tengono ancorato il supporto del'hard drive sull'iMac:
Due viti da 21 mm
Una vite da 9 mm
Una vite da 27 mm

At step 26, when reassembling, it's super easy to over-tighten the 9mm screw and strip the brass ferrule out of its hole in the plastic bracket (%#*@).

roberttrevellyan - 19/09/17

Mine has 4 different length screws, the two red colored 21mm screws in this guide are actually two differ lengths

anonymous 523 - 19/10/20

Mi imac does not have a HDrive whats the steps to follow?

Charlie - 05/02/21

buongiorno, l'imac del 2019, non monta alcuna ssd, ma monta una m2 direttamente sulla scheda madre!

pertanto nella guida andrebbe aggiunto il cavo sata con sensore temperatura da aggiungere sulla scheda madre, per poter collegare un nuovo hd ssd altrimenti rimarrete come me bloccati con un imac aperto e non assemblato, in attesa di ricevere il cavo acquistato su internet da amazon o terze parti.

vi consiglio inoltre di aggiungere una foto reale del ò'imac 2019 nella guida in cui manca l'ssd, renderà subito la problematica che avranno in molti!

Donato Altomare -

Hi, mine doesn’t HAVE an HD/SSD to remove, the bay is empty (yes it was fully working yesterday. So what do we do ? I see someone else with the sane issue above….

Jeroen Speak -

Passo 27

Rimuovi i supporti sinistro e destro dell'hard drive dell'iMac.

Passo 28

I prossimi passaggi ti faranno lavorare con le mani vicino all'alimentatore esposto. Non toccare la faccia della scheda o le saldature. Toccarle significa correre il rischio di ricevere una scossa ad alta tensione dai diversi potenti condensatori fissati alla scheda.
Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere su un lato alla volta del connettore del cavo del tasto di accensione e scollegalo lentamente dalla sua presa.

I would advise that before removing the PSU unit and all other components from the bottom of the case that you remove the 5 screws at the bottom of the display which hold an insulation strip in place.

The guide shows this piece removed, but does not tell you how to remove it.

There will be 5, small J1000 screws. The middle one, which goes over Apple Logo is the shorter one of the 5, all others are the same length. Once this piece is gone removing the components is much easier, and chance of damage lessened.

[deleted] - 16/01/16

Added to the guide. Thanks for the tip!

Jeff Suovanen - 06/07/16

No need to remove power board and logic board and all other components, just remove the fan and it is quite "easily" accessable to change the RAM. Just need to use the tools to remove the old RAM and carefully install the new RAM.

I just did it without removing the logic or power board

Oleksandr Trokhymchuk - 11/08/17

could you elaborate a little more, I would love to skip the rest of these steps. How did you accomplish this?

ej P - 03/07/18

Oleksandr Trokhymchuk,

Thank you! You just saved me so much time! I wouldn’t call this “easy” but it saved me a lot of time and effort.

Joshua Ericson -

ej P: remove the fan assembly first. Then remove the connector that runs from the iSight camera to the logic board on the left.

the RAM is located right near that cable. It’s tricky to remove but you can pop open the connectors with a black nylon stick and the RAM chip will pop up at 45 degrees. Make a mental note on which way you will need to install the new ram as it’s tough to see. For the Crucial memory I got it was label side facing away you (facing towards rear metal enclosure).

the second chip has a plastic adhesive piece on it that you should probably attach to the new ram.

remove both chips then install the new ram in sequence from the board out.

Wizdom On Wheels - 10/07/19

In the photo for Step 28, the power button cable connector is placed around the power board screw hole on the top left of the power board.

However, on the iMac I upgraded, the power button cable connector was “fed” through the power power screw hole on the top left of the power board. The cable was too short to run around and below the hole.

Hence, I had to ensure the cable was “fed” through the hole during re-assembly and the screw carefully screwed back through the hole.

I guess every iMac is assembly just a bit differently, just to make repairs that much more fun.

Tim Telcik - 01/09/19

This is not correct and may have been assembled incorrectly during a previous repair.

Charlie Nancarrow -

Just replaced the hard drive and RAM with SSD and 16GB respectively and did NOT remove the power supply or logic board. Tricky is a word to describe putting the RAM in without removing the logic board. You work in the dark with little room to get your fingers in between the logic board and the back of the case. I put the first RAM chip in without a problem (the one next to the logic board), but the second to four tries and dropped it behind the logic board three times before finally getting it to position correctly. Just impossible to see and must work but feel. Still it was faster than removing all the components… though did remove the fan (needed cleaning anyway). All in all I can’t say enough about the help the guide was through the upgrade ! Thanks !

Ray Burgard - 14/12/19

I found this connector to be very tight and was afraid of breaking it off. I just kept slowly working on it—it did eventually come out.

I did try to sneak the RAM in without removing the logic board but my fingers were too big. I found it too difficult and just continued on with this guide.

Mikkif - 30/03/20

I was not able to install the memory without removing all the components. My fingers are too big and I could barely get in that tight spot to swap out the memory. The hardest part about the power supply is that one connector under the chin next to the Apple logo. Once it is out, you are home free because it is so easy to plug it back in when you are putting it all back together again. Ridiculous that Apple did not put a simple access door behind those memory slots because they are on the backside of the Mac! They did an access door on the PowerBooks and it did not ruin the appearance. They could have designed a cool looking pop out door that only had a thin seam around it so it would still look good. Then you could remove the access door to upgrade the memory easily.

Peter Hillman - 18/10/20

Does anyone know if this is the same situation as in the 2017 model? I just changed RAM in the 2017 version and also skipped taking out the logic board. I just bent a pair of tweezers and put some tape around the tips to make them less scratchy and used them to place the RAM modules into the slots. Worked supereasy and much much quicker than performing the complete tear down of the whole machine.

Nils Witte - 26/12/20

This step is impossible!

Cecily Walker - 05/01/21

@wizdomonwheels, I don’t see how I can get the RAM shield off of the logic board to access the RAM without removing the logic board. What am I missing?? I’m guessing that those of you that are suggesting this technique are working on older iMac models that don’t have the RAM shield.

jiclark - 11/03/21

Yes, you are correct. It is likely the various steps are a bit different on each model. If I recall I was likely working on a 2015 or older system. If there’s a shield in the way, I can’t think of a way you could get around it without pulling the logic board.

Wizdom On Wheels - 12/03/21

Passo 29

Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere su un lato alla volta del connettore del cavo di controllo dell'alimentatore e scollegalo lentamente dalla sua presa.

Passo 30

Svita le due viti Torx T10 da 7,2 mm che fissano l'alimentatore al case posteriore.
In alcuni modelli più recenti di iMac queste sono due viti T8 da 7,2 mm.
Durante il riassemblaggio assicurati di non bloccare il cavo del tasto di accensione dietro all'alimentatore.

In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

Ted Horodynsky - 15/07/20

Those screws were definitely not T10 but T9 on my unit

Vincent Monteil - 27/12/20

Those screws were T8 on my unit.

jag32mobile - 17/01/21

c'est du torx 08

pascal cacou -

Passo 31

Mentre sei alle prese con l'alimentatore stai molto attento a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o le saldature sul retro dell'alimentatore. Spostalo toccando esclusivamente i bordi della scheda.
Inclina l'alimentatore in avanti.

When replacing the PSU (on the re-build) take care not to trap the power button cable behind it - I did...

Dave Hallett - 10/08/17

Passo 32

Tira leggermente l'alimentatore verso l'alto e fuori dalla scocca.
Ruota l'alimentatore in senso antiorario, sollevando il lato destro di circa 2 cm rispetto a quello sinistro.

In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

Ted Horodynsky - 15/07/20

Passo 33

Fai scorrere l'alimentatore verso destra per evitare i supporti per le viti sulla scocca.

Passo 34

Muovi l'alimentatore avanti e indietro per rimuoverlo da suo alloggio nella scocca.
Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto già ora l'alimentatore: è ancora collegato alla scheda madre.

Passo 35

Stai molto attento a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o le saldature sul retro dell'alimentatore. Spostalo toccando esclusivamente i bordi della scheda.
Gira l'alimentatore per avere accesso al cavo di alimentazione DC sul retro della scheda madre.
Schiaccia l'aletta sul retro del connettore del cavo di alimentazione e sfilalo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

when pulled the cable, even slightly, the actual female piece that connects to the logic board came off. am i screwed?

Racheal Major - 08/05/17

Repairing sockets that come off the logic board is possible, but very specialised work. Unless you have a magnifying lamp and the necessary desoldering and soldering skills, it will be difficult but not impossible.

Charlie Nancarrow - 28/07/19

The tab is at the far end of the connector, so you’ll need to reach farther than you might think.

lkollar - 30/12/19

When I pulled the disconnect, I pushed down on the disconnect, instead of pushing down on the tab on the disconnect and bent those pins… tried to straighten the bent pins and two of the pins broke off the logic board. Will I need a new logic board or can I purchase the pins…?

Ray AA - 04/06/20

I could not disconnect this cable without fear of breaking something (as previous posters did). I found that I could skip this and the next step by wrapping the power supply in a couple layers of a small towel (to prevent shorting with any other metal surfaces), and laying the power supply on the aluminum face of the iMac near the Apple logo. This got it out of the way enough to do what I needed on the logic board (changing PRAM battery) after completing removal of the other items in this guide.

Phil McInnis -

Passo 36

Può esserti d'aiuto appoggiare l'iMac sul suo retro per i prossimi passaggi.
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per premere verso l'interno l'aletta sul lato del connettore del cavo di alimentazione AC.
Mentre premi l'aletta per il rilascio, afferra il cavi di alimentazione AC e sfilalo dalla sua presa.

I didn't disconnect the input cable to the power supply. Because I had the machine lying on its back throughout, I placed it on to the metal bit at the bottom of the machine instead (with a cloth to stop the metal getting scratched). The AC inlet cable was pretty tricky to get un-locked, and the PSU sat on the case fine. It didn't hinder anything else throughout the guide.

Dave Hallett - 10/08/17

I thought from Dave’s comment that I could leave the power supply completely in place, but I was mistaken. In order to remove the hard drive assembly after you remove the center screw in it, you’ll need to at least unscrew it and the HD assembly will slip out. Like Dave said, you don’t need to unplug the AC or PSU, which I left hanging.

Getting power supply to the logic board unplugged is also tricky without unscrewing the two bottom screws. They didn’t make this part easy.

delacrj2 - 22/12/17

Kleiner Rechtschreibfehler - statt „denac“ muss es wohl „den iMac“ heißen

Gonzalo - 01/11/18

Au ja. Du kannst so was selbst ausbessern. Einfach auf “Übersetzen" gehen und loslegen.

VauWeh - 01/11/18

I would like to thanks Dave Hallett for his tip of not removing the AC inlet connector of the power supply. I simply wrapped the board in bubble wrap and taped to the iMac case, out of the way, thus giving access to the remaining disconnection procedures and preventing the board from scratching to the iMac case. It also made reassembly much simpler.

Rob Hogan - 04/08/20

Yeah, that AC inlet plug was a nasty one to unplug, mainly because I was trying not to bump the solder joints on the PSU. After a few wiggles and pulls while manipulating the spudger tool to release the clip, it finally unplugged. Made it easier by removing the PSU completely so you don’t have to worry about it. Don’t worry, plugging it back in is a breeze!

Peter Hillman - 18/10/20

With the right tool this plug comes out very easily. Forget about your tiny computer tools, go to the garage and grab a regular old needle nose pliers. Grab the clip and the plug at the same time. The plug will come right out.

Carin Ann Loewen - 08/03/21

Carin Ann— The most helpful comment on this procedure. After reading what you wrote I maneuvered the board, grabbed the clip with my left hand (a little awkward because of the cooling enclosure), squeezed the front of the plug, and got it out.

Glen Kohler -

+1 for needle nose pliers!

Sam -

Passo 37

Rimuovi l'alimentatore dall'iMac.

erreur: retirer "la carte d'alimentation" et non" le disque dur" !!!!!

Moreau - 16/04/17

Passo 38

Delicatamente scollega il connettore del cavo della ventola dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.

Passo 39

Rimuovi le tre viti Torx T10 da 10 mm che fissano la ventola sulla scocca posteriore.
La vite più in alto ha una guarnizione in gomma per aderire meglio e supportare lo schermo: lascia la guarnizione dov'è.

In this photo the hard drive brackets and tray are fully assembled. But, you’ve just dismantled about half of it already in early steps. This photo is apt to confuse you a bit when you’re doing everything in reverse order.

Timothy Reynolds - 08/06/19

Another way to say what Tim said above:

For reassembly, this picture, showing the hard drive brackets back in place, is misleading. Leave them off still.

IF, at this stage, you reinstall the hard drive brackets, when you get to the time to reinstall the power supply, you will have to backtrack and take the brackets off.

Tech Medic -

Passo 40

Rimuovi la ventola dall'iMac.

For reassembly, this picture, showing the hard drive brackets back in place, is misleading. Leave them off still.

IF, at this stage, you reinstall the hard drive brackets, when you get to the time to reinstall the power supply, you will have to backtrack and take the brackets off.

Tech Medic -

Passo 41

Solleva l'hard drive dal bordo più vicino alla scheda logica e tiralo leggermente fuori dal suo alloggiamento.
L'unità è ancora collegato tramite il cavo SATA; non provare a rimuoverla del tutto già a questo punto.

Passo 42

Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il singolo cavo SATA spingendolo con delicatezza lontano dal disco rigido.
Rimuovi l'hard drive dall'iMac.

I’ve found that loosening the T10 screws on the enclosure to the left helps give some room to remove and reinstall the drive. Otherwise reattaching the SATA cable can be a hassle.

rothgar - 25/01/20

Not only is it useful to loosen up the speaker next to the SATA connector I found it helpful to use a pen to mark the exact location of the edges of the SATA connector on top of the new drive, so I could guide the connector in place. It also helps to put the bumpers in after you get this SATA connector in place.

bsmith1 -

Waiting to put the bumpers on until after the SATA cable is attached was a must! Also loosing the speaker and moving over a couple centimeters was a huge help. Thanks

Michael Bunsen -

Passo 43

Stacca la protezione gommata da un lato del tuo disco fisso.
Ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato del disco fisso.
Quando installi un nuovo disco, e' utile utilizzare un nastro biadesivo per attaccare le protezione al tuo nuovo disco.

reconnecting the new drive can be a little tricky as the sata connector in the Mac is hard to align. I found that it helps to move the end of the bumpers out of the way, then push them back into position once the drive is connected.

Gareth Jones - 19/05/17

Thank you for the tip!

Michael Gagne -

thats what it did as well, thx for the hint. also i used a plastic spudger to reconnect the plug unto the new drive and leveled it against the speaker casing thats so close to the drive bay

Stef999 - 07/08/17

Can I install a Samsung 850 EVO 500GB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?

Maurits K - 08/08/17

Yes you can install ANY SATA SSD.

And no … there is no thermal sensor on the drive. You don’t need them on these models.

robert Seith - 03/10/17

Can I install a Seagate FireCuda 2TB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?

andrew mudd - 31/12/17

Did you ever find out if you could replace your 500 GB with that Firecuda? I’m looking at doing that. I need more storage for my 500 GB photos library and don’t want to pay so a ton for the SSD that is big enough.

shippster - 03/05/18

where is the guide for the follow up ?

installing a new hard disk and closing the screen back up.

yog1389 - 03/05/18

The SSD was a HUGE performance boost over the 5400rpm drive my iMac came with. If you’re pulling your hair out because Lightroom has become excruciatingly slow, upgrade your hard drive to SSD. You will not be disappointed.

The kit has everything you need. Follow these instructions carefully and you’ll be fine.

Mike Mullis - 18/08/18

Huge improvement! It’s like a new machine. Highly recommended upgrade.

Take care with the adhesive strips, and don’t forget to set new SSD as the boot disk (System Preferences, Startup Disk) after you’ve tested its bootable.

Stephen Babbage - 16/10/18

I previously had a fusion drive and installed a SSD. Will there be any issues with the ssd portion of the fusion drive? I still see it there in disc utility. Also, I’m showing two SSDs, along with the 32 gig one. Is that correct or did I create something that shouldn’t be there?

rossmueller - 09/01/19

I have this same question. I’m showing 2 drives but 1 is grayed out on the computer screen when I click on it nothing happens.

Frank - 16/03/19

A fusion drive combines two physical disks via software to act as one. It it something that has to be done manually and expressly. When you first got the computer, your fusion drive combined disks A (SSD) and B (HDD). If you replaced B, then you probably have an unused 32 GB blade SSD along with your new SSD. It possible to create another Fusion drive, but you’d have to start from zero, because creating a fusion drive erases the individual disks completely.

also, not 100%, but I tried for several hours the other day and I’ve come to the conclusion that my version of Big Sur (11.1) doesn’t support Fusion Drives. Correct me if I’m wrong. Or maybe it’s because I’m running Big Sur on an unsupported iMac.

David -

It is also possible install the bumpers after getting the drive cable attached. This gives you more room to work with the cable and drive.

Sean Kane - 28/12/19

The hardest part was to plug the connector into the new SSD. I loose the two screws of the adjacent (left) speaker and move it just enough to have sufficient space to introduce my fingers to push the conector into the SSD. Left the replace of the rubber bumpers after reconnect the SSD, is easy to handle without it.

Dennis Salas - 13/02/20

I bought Samsung QVO 1TB SSD and now the fan is blasting fast and loud. So if these don’t use the thermal cables then what seems to be triggering the high temp? Obviously it’s the hard drive but could it be that the drive was cloned? I’m kinda stumped, I know I can control with software but some of you are saying it should run normal after install. Thanks for the info.

MonoFrio - 10/05/20

Is there a PCIe slot for an SSD instead of the SATA 3.0 2.5”?

thank you,

deejaysurfer - 15/10/20

Not unless your iMac shipped with a Fusion drive or SSD.

roberttrevellyan -

The step-by-step guide was awesome and easy to follow. As others have commented, getting the SATA connector onto the SSD is tricky but not impossible. Just pull back the rubber bumpers long enough to reach the connector, then flip them back into place before seating the drive. One comment for my machine (late 2015 21.5”): There is no mic hole for my model, so while I was a little confused at the instructions on reinstalling the adhesive, the drive replacement went like a dream. And I saved myself the $120 labor the local Mac shop wanted to charge me.

Glenn Pettit - 22/10/20

Hat alles prima funktioniert. Leider läuft der Lüfter jetzt auf 100% und kernel_task Prozess ist bei über 300%. Was habe ich falsch gemacht. Diagnose meldet jetzt einen SMC Fehler und CPU-Proximity liefert keinen Wert.

Kann jemand helfen?

Michael Schmitz - 08/01/21

schau doch mal hier https://apple.stackexchange.com/question...

Oliver Gaida - 12/03/21

This is the least accurately described step (sorry, author). While removal is easy, inserting the new drive in its place is a bit tricky. The key here, is to insert the new drive with its rubber bumpers back in its space, so that it is fully seated down in its place *before* the connector can be re-attached. Once it is seated in place, use the flat end of the spudger to gently manoeuver the connector back into place until it is firmly connected to the drive.

Ernst -

Reassembling the iMac is not simply following these instructions in reverse order (sorry, author).

Before embarking on the home stretch, it is very important to carefully study the guide about the Adhesive Strips Replacement (iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement - iFixit Repair Guide), as this a tedious and time consuming process. Perfect alignment of those adhesive strips takes some concentration, because you will want to have your display panel back nice and tight and fully aligned with the case. Once all strips are in place, the 2 display connectors need to be gently reattached to the motherboard, before closing up the panel. I took my sweet time for that step, and thankfully have a perfectly aligned display panel back in place looking no different from the factory fit.

Ernst -

Here’s the rest of the information you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xDJ28Oe...

John Smith -

I got a 4 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD as a replacement for a client. (Going for capacity over speed.) Does anyone know if it will fit? It’s definitely fatter than the other HDD/SSDs I’ve installed before.

David -

There needs to be more added to cover the first part of re-assembly. To connect up my SSD, I needed to remove screws that held in place the black plastic to the left of the drive bay. This was only way to get the added space needed to connect the SSD to the drive cable. I also connected the SSD first, then attached the rubber bumpers, simply to give me more room to maneuver the drive next to the connector. All in all, yes, a person well familiar with tearing down iMacs could do it in an hour or so. But frankly, the design of this iMac is a total horror show when it comes to repair or replacement of parts, especially given its reliance on glue and adhesives. Gee, just like other Apple products.

Ben Myers -

Ben, after you replaced the HDD with SSD, did you have any fan issues on the A1418 model iMac? Thinking of doing this but I’ve been reading for hours and seeing mixed reports about thermal sensors.

Christopher Henley -

This iFixit tool (iFixit Opening Tool) will be your best friend when it's time to install your new 2.5" hard drive. Simply hook the tool to the back top corner of the iMac SATA adapter, connect your hard drive loosely to the SATA ports and use the tool to pull the SATA adapter forward into the hard drive.

iannai29 -

After replacing the hard drive. All went well BUT -now my mic does not work. It's the single hole on the bottom. Any ideas anybody?

Paolo Alberto -

Did you notice step 14 in the guide to replacing the adhesive strips?

roberttrevellyan -

Please update the end of this guide, pointing the customer to the guide for replacing the display adhesive strips. You provide a single kit for this procedure, and the customer has to figure out that they must follow two independent guides, in order to successfully complete the installation.

Lewis -

Ich habe den unteren Klebestreifen gar nicht gelöst! --> Monitor (Glasscheibe) nach vorne auf ein dickes Kissen gelegt - so dass das Glas nur ca. 80° Winkel nach vorne zu liegen kommt und dann habe ich die Festplatte getauscht! So konnte ich die untere Klebeleiste wieder verwenden und hatte genügend Platz um die senkrechten und oberen Leisten zu verkleben! ⏎
Tip: Klebestreifen zuerst auf dem Alugehäuse befestigen......

Fridtjof Schüssler -

Passo 44

Svita la vite Torx T8 da 7,3 mm che fissa il supporto dell'unità alla scocca posteriore.

it`s a t10 screw..! ;)

happymac venezuela - 31/03/19

I found it easier to connect SATA cable before fixing tray.

Mārtiņš Jansons - 29/11/20

Passo 45

Rimuovi il supporto del disco rigido.

I am following these procedures for the following: iMac Retina 4K - 21.5" - 3GHz Quad Core - Radeon Pro 555 2GB - 4GB/4GB (8GB total - 2 slots) 2400MHz DDR4 SO-DIMM - Mid 2017 - Model: MNDY2LL/A - iMac18,2 - A1418 - 3069. In my case, the SATA cable is clipped into the bottom of the hard drive tray. Pull the hard drive tray up slightly and angle to reveal clips. SATA cable pops out from the side of each clip.

iannai29 -

Better yet, after reading Step 49 - no need to remove SATA cable from the bottom of the hard drive tray.

iannai29 -

Passo 46

Tira delicatamente verso il basso il cavo di connessione dello speaker di destra finché non viene scollegato dalla sua presa sulla scheda.

Please, please, please…Please! Make sure you fix this cable somewhere where you can get to it when you put the mother board back in. it is a pain to screw it down and realize that it’s under the motherboard. Learn from my pain.

LeBarron Durant - 04/05/21

I did not learn from your pain @lebarron durant, but I’m going to read every single comment next time!!

carsonmkulp -

Passo 47

Tira delicatamente fuori dalla sua presa sulla scheda il cavo di connessione dello speaker di sinistra.

I had to pinch the 2 sides of the left speaker cable while pulling down. I didn’t have to do this with the right speaker it came out with no problem. The left was a little tougher, but you have more clearance and can use your fingers on the left speaker cable.

LeBarron Durant - 01/05/21

Passo 48

Rimuovi il cavo dello speaker di sinistra dalla clip di fissaggio sul retro della copertura posteriore tirandolo verso l'alto.

Passo 49

Similmente a quanto fatto prima, rimuovi anche i cavi SATA e di alimentazione dalla clip di fissaggio tirando verso l'alto.

Passo 50

Solleva il pezzo di nastro che collega il cavo dello speaker di sinistra ai cavi di alimentazione e connessione SATA.

Passo 51

Ruota la staffa di fissaggio sul connettore del cavo della camera FaceTime.
Tira il cavo della camera FaceTime fuori dalla sua presa sulla scheda.
Questo è un cavo delicato che si danneggia facilmente.

Passo 52

Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 4,0 mm che tengono fermi i quattro cavi delle antenne AirPort/Bluetooth.

Passo 53

Scollega tutti e quattro i cavi delle antenne tirandoli fuori dalle loro prese sulla scheda Airport/Bluetooth.

Passo 54

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della porta jack dalla sua presa sulla scheda.
Questo connettore è posizionato nell'angolo in basso a destra della scheda, vicino allo speaker di destra.
Delicatamente piega il cavo verso lo speaker in modo che non possa interferire con la scheda.

Passo 55

Rimuovi il nastro che copre il condotto dell'aria.

Passo 56

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Torx T8 che uniscono il condotto di scarico dell'aria alla copertura posteriore:
2 viti da 6,2 mm
2 viti da 4,7 mm

At least in the 2017 iMac both of the red screws are missing – removing the orange ones was enough.

Jonathan Rudow - 28/10/17

UGH! you have to have a torx screw driver long enough to hit the screw on the bottom right corner where it goes through the motherboard. Just good luck that I had a coworker that had one!!!

Sam Fung - 18/09/19

Passo 57

Solleva e scollega l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del microfono dalla presa sulla scheda e sfila il cavo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Il cavo del microfono è delicato, quindi stai attento a non danneggiarlo nei passaggi successivi. Se necessario, usa del nastro per fissarlo sul fronte della copertura dell'iMac prestando attenzione, per evitare di danneggiarlo.

My microphone stopped working after I put everything back together very very carefully. I am unsure whether or not I inserted the cable back incorrectly or damaged the cable. I did not find out the mic stopped working until I put everything back together and installed the operating system, so BE EXTRA CAREFUL with the cable! Hope this helps someone!!!

Sam Fung - 11/10/19

Passo 58

Rimuovi le 4 viti Torx T8 da 7,3 mm che fissano la scheda logica alla copertura posteriore.

On the iMac I’m upgrading right now, the bottom left screw in this picture had a black adhesive sticker over the screw. It was round and the size of the screw head, but it blocked you from getting a driver into it. I had to peel it off.

John M - 08/02/19

Passo 59

Inclina la scheda tirando delicatamente verso di te la parte superiore di essa.

As the motherboard is left on the first picture, shouldn't it be at the second place ?

Emmanuel - 09/06/17

Passo 60

Rimuovendo e installando la scheda, presta attenzione a non danneggiare il delicato cavo del microfono in basso a sinistra.
Ora tira la scheda delicatamente verso l'alto per rimuoverla dall'iMac.
Stai attento a non far impigliare la scheda in nessuna delle sedi in rilievo per le viti sulla copertura posteriore.

At step 60, when reinstalling the logic board, check to make sure the I/O ports are flush with the back of the case. It’s easy to end up with a small gap, and if you do, you won’t be able to fully insert USB-C connectors.

roberttrevellyan - 19/09/17

I’d like to second this. Screw in the four logic board screws very loosley. Then make sure all the cables are where they should be. Then push the bottom of the board back until you feel it snap into place. Then tighten the four screws. At this point, before going any further, test out all the ports with some plugs to make sure everything goes in nice and easy.

John M - 27/04/20

Especially the USB-C's, these are the most delicate ones...

Froggy Manny -

Passo 61

Manovrando la scheda logica solo sui bordi, rovesciala per avere accesso ai due moduli RAM.

What is the left bottom m.2 terminal?

Daewon - 23/08/17

Passo 62

Due alette di bloccaggio, una per lato, mantengono fisso ogni banco di RAM. Usando le dita, spingile verso l'esterno dal primo banco di RAM.
Quando liberati, i banchi di RAM resteranno lievemente inclinati.

Passo 63

Inclina il banco di RAM fino ad un angolo di circa 30 gradi e sfilalo dalla presa.
Quando maneggi i banchi di RAM presta attenzione a toccarli solo sui lati. Non toccare i contatti dorati sul bordo inferiore.
Per montare un nuovo banco di RAM, fallos correre in posizione a circa lo stesso angolo finché va a battuta, quindi inclinalo verso il basso finché le clip non si bloccano.

Passo 64

Il banco di RAM più vicino alla scheda ha un pad termico fissato alla sua faccia superiore (che guarda lontano dalla scheda, tra i due banchi).
Rimuovilo e trasferiscilo sul nuovo banco prima di installarlo nello slot inferiore.

Wird das Display beim späteren Zusammenbau nicht frisch verklebt? Beispielsweise mit Klebestreifen?

f.ferlemann - 05/07/19

Aggiornamento hard drive SATA e RAM iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017)

Introduzione

Strumenti

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