Sostituzione SSD Blade iMac Intel 27" Display Retina 5K 2019

Scritto Da: Adam O'Camb

Commenti: 132

Sostituzione SSD Blade iMac Intel 27" Display Retina 5K 2019

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

1 - 3 ore

Introduzione

Se il tuo iMac era configurato con un SSD o un Fusion Drive, include un SSD Blade sul retro della scheda logica. Usa questa guida per accedere e rimuovere l'SSD Blade.

Prima di iniziare qualsiasi lavoro sul proprio iMac: Stacca il computer dall'alimentazione, premi e tieni premuto il tasto d'accensione per 10 secondi per scaricare i condensatori dell'alimentatore.

Stai molto attento a non toccare i connettori dei condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura scoperta sul retro della scheda di alimentazione. Maneggiala solo dai lati.

Strumenti

Ricambi

Passo 1

Se la cerniera è libera di muoversi, l'iMac si può sbilanciare e rendere difficile il lavoro. Sistema sotto lo stand un supporto di riparazione iMac per rendere stabile il dispositivo.
Se stai usando il supporto in cartone iFixit, segui queste istruzioni per montarlo.

Passo 2

Iniziando dal lato sinistro dello schermo, vicino al pulsante di alimentazione, inserisci lo Strumento di apertura iMac nella fessura tra il pannello di vetro e la cover posteriore.
La sporgenza sullo Strumento di apertura iMac impedisce alla rotellina di entrare troppo in profondità. Se usi un attrezzo diverso, non inserirlo per più di 9,5 mm nello schermo. In caso contrario, rischieresti di tagliare dei cavi di antenna e di causare seri danni al dispositivo.

Passo 3

Usa l'attrezzo come se fosse una rotella per tagliare la pizza: fallo girare lungo la fessura, tagliando così l'adesivo in schiuma.
Stai attento a mantenere premuta l'impugnatura dietro la rotella. Se la tiri, la rotella potrebbe uscire dall'impugnatura.
Passa l'attrezzo attorno al lato sinistro dello schermo.

Passo 4

Continua a far scorrere l'attrezzo attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro.

Passo 5

Taglia l'adesivo lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro del display.

Passo 6

Continua a lavorare lungo la parte superiore dello schermo.
Puoi far andare l'attrezzo avanti e indietro un po' di volte nei punti già trattati per essere sicuro di avere completamente tagliato l'adesivo.

Passo 7

Spingi l'attrezzo attorno all'angolo superiore destro dello schermo.

Passo 8

Spingi la rotella verso il basso lungo il lato destro dello schermo.

Passo 9

Finisci di lavorare con lo strumento di apertura sul perimetro arrivando all'angolo inferiore destro del display.
A questo punto, puoi far scorrere l'attrezzo di nuovo lungo l'intero perimetro per essere certo di avere tagliato tutto l'adesivo possibile.

Passo 10

Anche se lo strumento di apertura ha fatto la maggior parte del lavoro necessario, lo schermo rimarrà ancora un po' aderente al case. Servirà una scheda di plastica per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.
Disponi l'iMac in piano a faccia in su.
Iniziando dall'angolo superiore destro dell'iMac, infila una scheda di plastica tra lo schermo e la scocca.
Stai attento a non inserire la scheda di plastica più di 9,5 millimetri per non danneggiare i componenti interni.

Passo 11

Torci delicatamente la scheda di plastica per creare una fessura tra il display e la scocca e per tagliare tutto l'adesivo rimasto vicino all'angolo.
Usando troppa forza, il vetro si romperà. Agisci delicatamente e non cercare di creare una fessura che sia più larga di circa 6 mm.

Passo 12

Devi fermarti prima della fotocamera iSight, altrimenti potresti danneggiarla.
Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro dello schermo per tagliare tutto l'adesivo rimasto.

Passo 13

Infila di nuovo la scheda di plastica nell'angolo e lasciala in posizione per evitare che la colla possa riattaccarsi.

Passo 14

Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

Passo 15

Inclina delicatamente la scheda per aumentare lievemente lo spazio libero tra il display e la scocca.
Come già fatto sull'altro lato, applica molto lentamente la torsione alla scheda per dar tempo all'adesivo di staccarsi e presta una particolare cura a non forzare troppo il vetro dello schermo.

Passo 16

Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, anche questa volta fermandoti appena prima della fotocamera iSight.

Passo 17

Infila di nuovo la scheda di plastica nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

Passo 18

Con le schede di plastica inserite come in figura vicino agli angoli, applica ad entrambe una torsione per allargare la fessura tra lo schermo e il case.
Se ci sono delle parti che sembrano rimanere attaccate e non intendano separarsi, interrompi la torsione e usa una delle schede per tagliare l'adesivo rimasto nell'area interessata.
Inizia a sollevare la parte superiore dello schermo dalla scocca.
Solleva lo schermo solo di qualche centimetro: è ancora collegato all'iMac dai cavi dei dati e dell'alimentazione.

Passo 19

Mantieni lo schermo con uno mano mentre con l'altra stacchi il cavo di alimentazione dello schermo .
Solleva lo schermo abbastanza in alto da avere un accesso facile al connettore, ma non tanto da strappare i cavi e forzare i rispettivi connettori (alzalo di circa 20 cm).

This is not a picture of the 2019 model. On the 2019, the cable is angled and very close to a metal part that looks like it could be a wireless card. This makes it difficult to squeeze in the edges required to release the cable. I was able to unfasten it using my fingernail, doing one side at a time.

maccentric -

Same issue. You can't just pull it out. I used a plastic "spudger" to push the clips in. The photo here shows where to press

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

Passo 20

Sblocca la staffa metallica di ritenuta del cavo dati dello schermo.
Scollega il cavo dati del display.
Questa è una connessione delicata che si può rompere facilmente. Assicurati di tirare il cavo dati dello schermo direttamente fuori della sua presa, verso la parte superiore del M;ac.

on the 2020 model there is also a connector from the camera that is connected ted to the screen.

Erwin Biermans -

This isn't the photo of my IMac 27 2019.

To remove this clip, lift up the plastic tag sticking down & the metal clip will lift too

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

Bill4321 -

Passo 21

Solleva lo schermo in posizione all'incirca verticale.
A questo punto c'è ancora una striscia di adesivo lungo il bordo inferiore dello schermo che tiene ancorato il display alla scocca come se fosse una cerniera. Puoi indebolire questo adesivo muovendo lo schermo su e giù per alcune volte di seguito.

Passo 22

Stai molto attento non toccare i capi del condensatore o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore (evidenziato in rosso).
Afferra la piccola linguetta all'estremità di una delle strisce adesive nella parte inferiore dello schermo e tira la striscia verso la parte superiore dell'iMac per rimuoverla.
Ripeti questo passo con l'altra striscia adesiva e rimuovi anche questa.
Se una delle strisce adesive si rompe prima di essere rimossa, usa una scheda di plastica per tagliare la parte di adesivo rimasta.

Passo 23

Stai molto attento nel maneggiare lo schermo: è grande, pesante e di vetro. Il display ha bordi fragili. Evita di sollevarlo dagli angoli.
Solleva lo schermo dalla scocca e rimuovi lo dall'iMac. Disponi il display a faccia in giù su una superficie piatta e morbida.
Può rendersi necessario sollevare lentamente il display da uno dei bordi laterali per staccare l'adesivo rimasto.
Dopo aver tagliato l'adesivo, non può essere più riutilizzato per rimettere al suo posto il display. Segui la guida per la sostituzione dell'adesivo del tuo modello al termine della procedura per sostituire le strisce adesive che fissano lo schermo alla scocca.

Passo 24

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per svitare le nove viti da 3,2 mm che tengono ferma la staffa di supporto.
Potresti dover rimuovere l'adesivo dello schermo dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac per accedere alle viti.

These are new steps from when I did this on my late 2015 retina iMac so I believe step 25 and 26 are optional (you can cope without doing it).

Amuseme -

I did not find it necessary to remove these screws and this bar

James Orwin -

I lost these 8 during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

Daniel - 02/09/22

Passo 25

Rimuovi la staffa di supporto inferiore dall'iMac.

No comments on this ?

It's quite possibly the most difficult part to put back in the entire process

The screws are tiny and the there is no easy way to line up the holes on the bracket with the screws

Having got this far - it wasn't even all that necessary to remove this part in the first place

Severe pain in the neck

Eoin -

After an hour of painstaking mess - I managed to get 7 out of the 9 back in

By that time I could care less about the remaining 2

Eoin - 21/04/22

With the right tools and technique, the bracket can easily be replaced in under a couple of minutes.

Use a screwdriver with a magnetized tip which frees up one hand and place a screw on the tip first.

Then line up the screw hole on just one end of the bracket and using a pair of tweezers from the side, hold the bracket in place while you put in the screw.

Next, do the same on the other end of the bracket. After that, all of the screws in the middle are quick to replace. I didn't really have to touch the bracket again after the end screws were in place.

Hope that helps someone else since removing this bracket does make later steps a bit easier.

Max Z - 08/06/22

I used Max Z tweezers technique but screwed one screw in at the end and then worked my way to the other end.

Stephen B -

Passo 26

Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 10 mm.

I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

Cool_Breeze -

While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

James Orwin -

I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

Dan Smith -

Passo 27

Disconnetti il cavo dello speaker tirandolo direttamente dalla sua porta sulla scheda madre. Stai attento a sfilare il cavo rimanendo in direzione dell'asse della presa.
Sfila il cavo dalla fessura tra l'hard drive e la scheda madre.
Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per il cavo dell'altoparlante, disconnettilo e lascia il cavo dov'è.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

tarex7 -

Passo 28

Stai attento a non toccare nessuna saldatura sul retro dell'alimentatore. I condensatori potrebbero essere abbastanza carichi da darti uno shock elettrico pericoloso.
Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del pulsante di accensione dalla sua sede sulla scheda madre.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - 04/10/15

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert - 17/12/15

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - 02/09/17

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

paul.lynch1 - 20/03/21

If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

Dominic Pettifer - 12/05/19

you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

Philip Sedlmair -

make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

flow in - 25/05/20

Passo 29

Solleva con attenzione l'altoparlante sinistro fino a quando il cavo del pulsante di accensione diventa visibile (1-2 cm).

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Sostituzione scheda logica iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Passo 30

Sfila delicatamente il cavo del pulsante di accensione dal suo incavo sull'altoparlante sinistro.

Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

Fabio Braga - 26/07/19

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Sostituzione scheda logica iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Passo 31

Solleva l'altoparlante sinistro e toglilo dall'iMac.
Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per liberare il cavo dell'altoparlante, tira fuori il cavo mentre rimuovi l'altoparlante.
Spingi dalla parte terminale del connettore mentre tiri dalla parte terminale dell'altoparlante per infilare il cavo sotto il supporto destro dell'hard drive.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - 17/12/15

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten - 10/03/16

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez - 09/11/17

It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

Eric - 11/01/20

easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

flow in - 25/05/20

Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Sostituzione scheda logica iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

ace - 06/03/21

Passo 32

Tira verso l'alto il cavo dati/di alimentazione SATA per scollegarlo dal disco.

Passo 33

Svita le due viti Torx T8 da 7,3 mm che fissano la staffa sinistra del disco rigido alla copertura posteriore.

Passo 34

Prendi insieme il disco rigido e la sua staffa sinistra.
Allontana il bordo sinistro dalla copertura posteriore e fai scorrere il gruppo verso sinistra.
Rimuovi il disco rigido e la sua staffa sinistra dall'iMac.

Passo 35

Rimuovi la staffa sinistra del disco rigido.

Passo 36

Quando si lavora sull'alimentatore fai molta attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli.
Disconnetti il cavo di controllo dall'alimentatore.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - 18/06/15

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - 14/06/17

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

Eric - 11/01/20

ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

Boris - 16/05/20

These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

Pete Mackenzie - 18/05/20

One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

Mike Fleming - 30/08/20

If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

Davo Montiel -

Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

Dan Smith -

If you have a insulated long nose pliers along with a splugger and can get underneath the cable WITH the long nose pliers on the RIGHT side of the cable, towards the logic board, with the splugger on the LEFT Side of the cable doing the same, you can get the leverage to GENTLY pull this cable out very easily.

George Martinez -

Passo 37

Rimuovi le seguenti 4 viti che fissano l'alimentatore al case (T8 o T10 a seconda del modello):
2 viti Torx da 23,7 mm
2 viti Torx da 7,3 mm

Passo 38

Non tentare di rimuovere l'alimentatore dal case; è ancora fissato alla scheda logica da due cavi.
Sposta la scheda dell'alimentatore verso il bordo sinistro del case e verso l'alto per liberarla dall'incavo nella scheda logica.

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Sostituzione scheda logica iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

John Blagden - 23/10/21

Passo 39

Premi la linguetta sul connettore del cavo di alimentazione DC, quindi estrai il connettore dalla sua presa sul retro della scheda logica.
Se il cavo è troppo difficile da scollegare, puoi rimuovere la scheda dell'alimentatore e la scheda madre insieme.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - 24/07/16

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - 23/06/17

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - 21/03/18

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

Dave Sands - 30/12/19

Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

Kimbo M - 12/04/20

i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

Boris - 16/05/20

removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

flow in - 25/05/20

Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

Frédérick Charette - 14/06/20

Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

Dan - 14/06/20

Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

Mike Manasewitsch - 11/09/20

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See Sostituzione scheda logica iMac Intel 21.5" Display Retina 4K (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

Mike Rehbein - 12/04/21

John Blagden -

I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

Dan Smith -

The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

Andrew Phillips -

Passo 40

Fai molta attenzione a non toccare i condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli.
Capovolgi verso di te la parte superiore dell'alimentatore per rivelare il connettore del cavo di ingresso AC.
Scollega il connettore del cavo di ingresso CA.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - 24/03/17

There is a small release tab on the cable.

Eric - 11/01/20

Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

Andrew Phillips -

Passo 41

Usa un cacciavite Torx T10 per rimuovere le due viti da 10 mm che tengono fermo l'altoparlante destro.

Passo 42

Muovi l'altoparlante destro leggermente verso destra, per avere accesso al collegamento del suo cavo sulla scheda madre.

Passo 43

Usa uno spudger per allentare il connettore del cavo dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.
Tira il connettore verso destra per rimuoverlo dalla presa.

Passo 44

Solleva l'altoparlante e rimuovilo dall'iMac.

Passo 45

Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare i connettori dei cavi dalla presa nella scheda logica.

Passo 46

Distacca parzialmente il nastro adesivo nero che connette la ventola al condotto di scarico.
Lascia il nastro sul condotto di scarico: ti basta solo esporre la giunzione per liberare la ventola.

Passo 47

Rimuovi tre viti Torx T10 da 12,4 mm che fissano la ventola al case posteriore.

Passo 48

Rimuovi la ventola dall'iMac.

Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

ebay - 29/01/21

I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

S. Baxter -

Passo 49

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le due viti da 4 mm che tengono fermi i cavi delle antenne AirPort/Bluetooth.

Rather than unscrew the antenna cables, I usually unscrew the screws on the board and slide out the whole AirPort/Bluetooth module, which means I need not keep track of which antenna cable goes where.

johann beda - 15/12/20

Fully agree with comment of johann! I did it that way and was glad to not having to deal with the microscopic IPEX "coax" antenna connectors and order of them.

I'd like to add that after removing the 2 screws, the wifi/bt module is still holding into these 2 holes with 2 metal pieces.

Before pulling the module out of its socket, one has to slightly lift it away from the mainboard (maybe 1mm, so the metal pieces leave the holes).

Thomas Waldmann -

Confirmed. 2 T5 screws, and pull the board straight up out of its socket behind he motherboard. Leave all cables attached.

ebay - 29/01/21

Fully agree. It is not only handy for order of cables but especially eliminates risk of damaging the quite delicate IPEX connectors on the broadcomm wifi/bluetooth board when removing and reconnecting later. This happened to me. It is a huge hassle to replace / repair.

This should be main option!! Wish I read this comment first.

Starting Genius -

Does anyone know if this board can be upgraded to Bluetooth 5

Chris -

Passo 50

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare tutti i quattro connettori delle antenne dalla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.
Ricordati la posizione originale di ogni connettore mentre ricolleghi i cavi. Da sinistra a destra, sulla scheda, i connettori sono collegati nel seguente ordine:
Il più a sinistra
Quello in alto
Quello sopra a destra
Quello sotto a destra

TIP: Tape all 4 cables first to keep them in the correct position when re-assembling.

Les Lesaca -

Passo 51

Questo è un connettore delicato che si può rompere facilmente.
Ruota verso l'alto la staffa di bloccaggio in metallo sul cavo della fotocamera iSight.
Sfila il connettore del cavo della fotocamera dalla sua presa, tirandolo verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

Passo 52

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo della presa jack dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
Sposta delicatamente da parte il cavo.

Passo 53

Usa la punta di uno spudger per aprire, ruotandola, l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono.
Assicurati di star facendo leva sull'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sulla presa.
Usa delle pinzette per sfilare delicatamente il cavo a nastro del microfono dalla sua presa.

Make a 10x macro photo of that connection with a good camera (showing how far the ribbon cable is inserted into the connector) BEFORE opening/pulling and later AFTER reinserting/closing it. Then carefully compare the photos concerning how far the cable is inserted.

The only mistake I made while fixing my iMac was not to fully reinsert that ribbon cable and thus the mic did not work at first.

Thomas Waldmann -

Passo 54

Svita le seguenti viti che tengono ferma la scheda madre:
Due viti Torx T8 da 23,7 mm
Una vite distanziale Torx T25 da 20,1 mm
Una vite Torx T8 da 17,6 mm
Una vite Torx T8 da 7,2 mm
Tre viti Torx T8 da 7,1 mm
Una vite imperdibile Torx T8
Questa vite è dietro un foro nella scheda madre. Se non stai usando una cacciavite iFixit, potresti dover usare una prolunga o un cacciavite con un collo più lungo.

A 3.0 Hex driver worked for the T25 spacer screw.

johann beda - 15/12/20

1/8” hex worked, too

ebay - 29/01/21

For the T25 I used a regular chisel tip screw driver that was exactly the width between two opposite sides of the Torx star

The standoff is only screwed in by two or so turns and came out very easily for me

So you shouldn't have to force it and damage threads

Eoin -

Passo 55

Tira il cavo SATA del disco rigido e il connettore attraverso la staffa destra del disco rigido. Sposta il cavo alla destra dell'iMac, lasciando libera la porta dello scarico.
Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il cavo: non può ancora essere rimosso, ma intralcerà la rimozione della scheda madre.

When reassembling one should not "pull it through the right bracket", but rather "pull it through between the right bracket and the case".

Thomas Waldmann -

Passo 56

Usa un cacciavite Torx T8 per svitare le due viti da 5,6 mm dalla parte superiore del condotto di scarico del dissipatore.

For the life of me I jut could not get these two screws to go back in neatly

I had the same issue on both a 2017 and 2019 iMac 5K

After some thinking I realised the don't do much anyways so I left them out

No harm was done to either machine

Eoin -

Passo 57

Mentre rimuovi e installi la scheda madre, stai attento a non danneggiare il delicato cavo a nastro del microfono in basso a sinistra sulla scheda.
Inclina leggermente in avanti la scheda.
Solleva la scheda madre e rimuovila dall'iMac. Stai attento a non rompere nessuna delle prese per le viti fissate all'interno della copertura posteriore.

Passo 58

Mentre rimonti il tuo iMac, stai molto attento ad allineare correttamente le porte I/O esterne. La scheda può essere storta anche con tutte le sue viti avvitate.
Puoi usare una chiavetta USB o un cavo ethernet per assicurarti che la scheda madre sia posizionata correttamente mentre la avviti.

Insbesondere die USB3.1 Port sollten mit einem Stecker belegt werden! Ich habe nur die USB3.0 (A?) Ports mit Steckern belegt und konnte nach dem Zusammenbau alle Port benutzen, aber nicht die USB3.1 (C) Ports. Am besten überall einen Stecker rein.

Boris Boesler - 04/01/21

Boris is correct. I reassembled mine usig the USB3.1 ports for alignment and found that my USB-C plugs would not go in. Be sure to use USB-C ports for alignment!!!

Please update the instructions with this information.

Erik -

Confirmed. Used the rightmost USB-C and the leftmost USB-A connector and it aligned perfectly.

Thomas Waldmann -

Passo 59

Tira verso l'alto il connettore del cavo SATA per scollegarlo.
Scollega il connettore del cavo SATA sganciando la sua aletta di bloccaggio e tirandolo verso l'alto sul connettore.
Rimuovi il cavo SATA dal gruppo della scheda logica e spostalo in un punto dove non interferisca per prevenire un eventuale danneggiamento.

Where is this cable sold

mert - 02/03/17

Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

Steve Nilsen - 04/12/18

This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

Jeff Suovanen - 04/12/18

Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

Tom - 23/12/18

I'm waiting on the battery now! I have a CR2032 in the house, but I looked them up, and they're too different to make me comfortable using one. And I accidentally ordered the BR3032, AAAGH. Sigh. Stupid Amazon put them side by side, and I clicked on the wrong one. :) Must've been Amazon's fault. :) But for sure, I was looking at my computer in pieces, and I looked at that battery, and I thought, wait, when was this thing built? 2017? Um. Might be time for a change.

Patrick Vickers -

Tom, great tip on the battery. I put a new one in my 3½ year old iMac.

Dave Hoppenrath - 07/11/19

Could have used a warning that this cable is not present in models that shipped with a SSD. I was replacing my blade SSD and adding a new SSD at the same time, only to find that I was missing this cable while my iMac was in pieces. Had to reassemble it without adding the SATA SSD, major hassle.

Matt Stamm -

This is a bit of a grey space.

Clearly you don’t need the cable if you are replacing the HDD or switching it out of a SSD. Its only when you are enhancing your system by adding a drive which you didn’t have before.

Dan -

Hello congratulations on your ssd blade upgrade. Have you used the owc blade or a samsung + adaptor? Regarding the cable, do you know if we can buy the cable and plug it into the logic bard so to add another ssd in the aluminum frame ? thanks a lot have a niceday

Patrick -

@patrick7508 - I encourage you to stick with a pin-compatible drive not use a M.2 adapter as they are not reliable and some drives are not compatible. Stick with a real Apple drive or OWC. Just think of the work you needed to do just to get to the drive.

Dan -

Passo 60

Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T8 da 5,3 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.

What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

Peter - 30/10/14

Did you find out any details about the screw in the end?

djones - 24/04/20

I am also searching for the right screw. There wasn’t one there before as there was no M.2 SSD there before (late 2015 iMac with HDD configuration). It’s definitely smaller than the T8 Torx’s I have been taking out so far.

Boris - 16/05/20

I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

Shaheen Ghiassy - 17/05/18

I have bought an iMac 2015 with 3TB Fusion drive, from which the SSD blade was out of order.
A serviceman had split the Fusion drive and the iMac ran on HDD only. Awfully slow...
On the top of it the boot time was very long since the bootloader waited 3 minutes for the defective SSD to show up.
Since I had an Apple 121GB blade from an upgrade on a Macbook Air I replaced the SSD.
Now my iMac boots directly from the 121GB blade (AFPS), lightning fast. The 3TB HDD is HFS+ and holds my user files and Time Machine.

Laszlo Lebrun -

Passo 61

Per evitare di danneggiare il connettore, non alzare l'estremità dell'SSD più di circa 15°.
Solleva lievemente l'estremità dell'SSD e tiralo direttamente fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Durante la reinstallazione dell'SSD, assicurati che sia posizionato correttamente prima di reinstallare la sua vite di fissaggio.

this ssd is not for a late 2013!

this is 2012 year

cslbox - 21/08/14

What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

Which part I need?

MrSchaeffer - 03/11/14

I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

Brent - 08/12/14

Not get confused! Apple used different vendors of their SSD’s both SanDisk & Samsung supplied SSD’s in this series.

Dan - 09/12/19

Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

Lok - 09/11/15

For the 2012 iMac 27”, I can confirm the Blade SSD is an 8+18 pin SSDD and I believe this is a SATA drive, NOT a PCIe (NVMe) drive. I took my 2012 apart to try to add an NVMe drive with 2013 macbook adapter, and it does not fit. I didn’t have an adapter that worked so I just replaced the 3.5” HDD with a 2TB SATA 2.5” SSD and left the blade slot empty.

The SSD drives available from OWC have speeds consistent with SATA drives, so I think the benefit of replacing or filling the blade slot are pretty minimal unless you’re really trying to maximize your available storage space, in which case it’s likely better to invest in an external or network attached solution.

TL;DR 2012 iMac is an 8+18 pin setup that is likely SATA, not PCI-E so just replace the HDD with a big SATA drive.

Jakegub - 09/12/19

Here’s a good source of info The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs And BeetsTech is a good source for the SSD’s

Dan - 09/12/19

iMac 27” 2019!

I did it ;-) and ist works fine … but I had no microfon after reinstall. I had put the adhesive strips over the mic holes.

So I need to open again with a new pair of adhesive strips ;-)

I Have installed a Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO 1TB with the “long” sintech adapter and a Sandisk Ultra SSD 2TB (SATA).

Matthias - 23/12/19

I am about to do this to my 27” late 2015. Haven’t decided on which Blade SSD to use yet. But I have bought af Crucial MX500 2 TB SSD SATA.

I have read a lot of problems with the Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO.

Also read a lot about needing a SATA cable from OWC (OWCDIDIMacHDD12) In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor for 27-Inch iMac, to ensure the fann does not spin uncontrollably.

Have you had any problems with your setup with the Samsung SSD, and did you use the OWC cable ?

Lars - 19/01/20

I also did it with the same adapter, ordered for a few bucks from china.

I’m usign the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, they have updated the firmware and it works out of the box.

The firmware for older models can be updated directly on the mac with the updater from Samsung (can be installed on a USB stick and used to start the mac with it)

The standard 970 EVO does not have had the firmware issues, just the Plus had in the past.

For the blade SSD no OWC cable is required, that is only if a SATA-HDD is replaced by a SATA-SSD, thats a completely different thing.

maccy - 09/05/20

Is there supposed to be a heatsink attached to the replacement drive? I don't recall receiving one in the OWC package and I am seeing temps hitting 190 F (almost 88 C) under heavy load.

Maurice Volaski - 05/02/20

No heat sink on the blade SSD, you could add one but it won’t really change what you are facing here.

It does sound like your SSD maybe to small (and/or your system needs more RAM) given what you are doing.

Keep in mind boot drive (SSD here) is used for virtual RAM, caching and depending on the app scratch space. You want to leave at least 1/4 of the drive empty for best performance. 256 GB or smaller drives will need 1/3 reserved.

Dan - 05/02/20

How to boot the system after replacing the ssd? Where is the recovery partition? I have followed all the steps but the screen is black and not even the question mark is displayed.

LETRA -

Then you have an issue with your installation as you should be treated with a flashing question mark. Check your displays connections and maybe see if an external display works. Did you use the proper tools and technique within the guide to lift the display off? Many people have damaged the display in the process if they don’t follow the guide to the letter.

Dan -

Installed a 2019 SSD in my late 2015 iMac retina, purchased from fast_macs on eBay AOK with nearly 1900MB/s write 1800MB/s read (ish). Also installed Apple 2TB drive too whilst I was doing it.

Amuseme -

The 2017 and 2019 SSDs should be the same (or very similar). Both are SSPOLARIS and the same generation. I’m in the middle of doing the same on mine (mid 2017), going from a 2TB Fusion to a straight 1TB blade.

I purchased this one, based on the excellent feedback:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144429279418...

orrelljet - 15/03/22

If I install a new 2TB SSD to replace my HDD (2019 imac 27), do I have to install a new logic board SSD? I’d rather not have a fusion config any longer (S/W seems buggy - hence my fusion drive problems). I’d much rather have just the new 2TP SSD in place of the old HDD, if possible?

Chuck Lott -

Replacing your SATA HDD for a SSD makes a lot of sense! Any size will work.

You should pull the blade SSD which was mated to the HDD to create the Fusion Drive pair.

Dan -

Thanks Dan - blade SSD to be discarded!

Chuck Lott -

Hola. Quería saber que iMacs de 27” pulgadas llevan ese tipo de conector M2. Gracias

Jorge Yerbito -

@chucklott I'm in the same situation as you were. I have a new 2.5" SSD in-hand and would like to just use that, and pull the existing blade SSD out. I think I have to purchase a SATA cable though, because the iMac doesn't appear to come with one. Is that what you did too? Any other issues that you encountered with your fix?

kevinthoeng -

Depending on what your system was configured with for drives you may have the needed cables.

The low end config came with a SATA HDD as such you will have the needed SATA cables

If you bought the Mid tier config then you have a Fusion Drive which is really two physical drives the SATA HDD as well as a small blade SSD which is used as a cache drive (not visible from within the OS or Disk Utility as a mountable volume) again you will have the SATA cables. But you will need to remove the blade SSD as it gets in the way.

The last config is the high end which is where a much larger blade SSD is installed this is the only config that will require a SATA cable.

These setups are independent of the CPU/GPU the system also offered.

Dan -

Conclusione

Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto.

Autore

Adam O'Camb

Membro da: 11/04/15

195148 Reputazione

12 commenti

About as complex as a Mac gets in the modern era :-)

I struggled with re-engaging the ZIF socket for the microphone. Patience won out.

Re-seating the rear ports took a little effort; tolerances for USB-C is less than the motherboard screws. I wound up loosening all the MB screws, fully populated the rear USB/Ethernet/etc, then tightened them.

Having the correct tools definitely helped. The pizza cutter and Service Wedge makes quite the difference. Well stocked with iFixit tools here, but purchase of the adhesive package definitely helped the build.

Great teardown, thanks.

Luke Oliver -

And, wow, Terminal command I haven’t used before - “diskutil resetFusion”.

Made setting up a Fusion drive a snack!

Luke Oliver -

Hat problemlos funktioniert, neue WD 2 TB -SSD eingebaut.

Adapter von Amazon: NGFF M.2 NVMe SSD Convert Adapter Card für Upgrade MacBook Air 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 und Mac Pro Retina 2013 2014 2015 (Schwarz) von Anyoyo

MMOBIEL Klebe Sticker Strip Set für LCD Display kompatibel mit iMac 27" A1419 iMac13,2 2012, iMac14,2 2013, iMac15,1 Retina 5K 2014 mid 2015, bei Amazon gefunden und damit das Ganze wieder verklebt.

jetzt läuft die Monterey-Installation durch…

Vorsicht mit den Kabeln, wie immer, ist Alles sehr fummelig.

Mit Vorsicht hat die Bastelei etwa 3 Stunden gedauert…

Reparatur-Set für iMac 5,6 cm (21,5 Zoll) / 68,6 cm (27 Zoll), rutschfester Griff + 4 Ersatzrollen aus Karbonfaser ebenfalls von Amazon zum Öffnen.

das Teil hier zum Öffnen.

Gerrit Wolf -

Hat schon jemand eine NVMe SSD mit montierten Kühlkōrper installiert? Wie hoch darf der Kühlkörper maximal sein?

BSlash -

Hey need help !

I lost 8 screws ***Step 24*** Remove the support bracket during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

Daniel -

The screws you're referencing are for replacement of the 'chin strap' on the bottom edge of the opening, just where the lower edge of the display panel will rest. Removal of the 'chin strap' is not really necessary to remove the logic board. It just takes a bit more care.

Eric Haulenbeek -

Hi, I want to change the SSD part of my fusion drive to install a 1tb SSD that I'll use for the system and apps, and keep the HDD as an internal data storage. From what I understand, I just need any M2 SSD for this, right? Do I specifically need a M2 nvme ssd for this ?

I'm also considering a cheaper option: removing the SSD part of the fusion drive and replacing the HDD with a 2.5" SSD. Is it also possible?

Raphaël Diaz -

Hi Raphael. Did you get any help with your question. I too would like to replace just the HDD with and SSD

Dr Crackers -

I have a similar question as Raphaël above. Does the pure SSD unit as shipped from the factory come with a blade SSD or a SATA connected SSD. The teardowns only show fusion drive upgrades. And if the factory SSD is the blade type, can a SATA connected SSD be added as a secondary drive or will the system still see it as one drive?

Mariner -

Did you get a reply to this question? I have the same question

Dr Crackers -

If I upgrade the blade ssd to 2T and hard driver to 1T SSD drive, whether I should remove the Fusion Drive before install? After changed both how to re-install the OS? Do I need to setup Fusion Drive again? Thanks

慧云轩 -

Well the guide was perfect but when i reassembled the motherboard was powered but screen did not light - retried everything but no luck. Most difficult teardown ever. Wish i had just cut the back open with a dremel!!!

karma - 28/02/24