Sostituzione case posteriore iPhone 5c

Passo 1

Se il vetro del tuo display è crepato, l'applicazione di nastro adesivo sullo schermo blocca ulteriori rotture e previene possibili infortuni.
Disponi strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo trasparente sul display dell'iPhone fino a coprire l'intera superficie.
In questo modo eviterai la dispersione di schegge di vetro e assicurerai l'integrità strutturale dello schermo quando staccherai e solleverai il display.
Indossa occhiali di sicurezza per proteggere gli occhi da schegge di vetro che potrebbero saltar via durante la riparazione.

Passo 2

Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria dell'iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se viene forata accidentalmente.
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare a smontarlo.
Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe P2 da 3,8 mm da ciascun lato del connettore Lightning.

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

V. Jones - 15/02/17

I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

Jim Thomas - 07/02/19

My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

Cody Craven - 11/02/19

@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

Jeff Suovanen - 11/02/19

Passo 3

I prossimi due passi mostrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo strumento per aprire l'iPhone 5c. Lo raccomandiamo a chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione su iPhone 5, 5s o 5c. Se non intendi usare l'iSclack , salta al passo 5.
Chiudi l'impugnatura dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.
Disponi la parte inferiore dell'iPhone tra le ventose, contro il sensore di profondità in plastica.
La ventosa superiore deve trovarsi appena sopra il pulsante home.
Apri l'impugnatura per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con decisione sulle due facce dell'iPhone.

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

V. Jones - 08/04/18

Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

Michael W Mason - 24/08/18

@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

Jeff Suovanen - 27/08/18

Passo 4

Impugnando saldamente l'iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per allontanare tra loro le ventose e tirare via il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone giusto quanto basta a separare le parti senza danneggiare alcun cavo.
Stacca dall'iPhone le due ventose.
Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 8.

Passo 5

Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Accertati che la ventosa sia interamente posizionata sullo schermo e quindi garantisca la massima tenuta.

cool i diden't now

Ben Lewis Murray Dyne - 06/12/15

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

bromanmoon - 02/09/17

Passo 6

Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben attaccata al gruppo del pannello frontale.
Mentre tieni giù il telefono con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello anteriore dal case posteriore.
Fai con calma e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è attaccato più saldamente rispetto alla maggior parte dei dispositivi.
Con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a spingere delicatamente verso il basso il case posteriore, separandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.
Ci sono diverse clip che agganciano il gruppo del pannello frontale al case posteriore. Per liberare il gruppo display puoi usare una combinazione di ventosa e strumento di apertura in plastica.

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - 07/02/15

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston - 11/06/15

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

V. Jones - 08/04/18

This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

Renee - 15/02/20

I did it with a guitar pick and no suction cup.

andrew - 08/06/20

Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.

guardian10 -

Passo 7

Tira la sporgenza in plastica per staccare la ventosa.
Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

Passo 8

Solleva il lato del pulsante home del gruppo display per accedere ai connettori vicino alla parte alta del telefono.
Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo a qualche cosa di adatto a tenerlo aperto mentre lavori sull'iPhone.
Se non hai altro, puoi usare una lattina chiusa per tenere su il display.
Aggiungi un elastico per tenere saldamente il display mentre lavori sul telefono. In questo modo eviterai di sforzare involontariamente i cavi del display.

Using a can works really well!

Amy Dachs - 28/08/18

I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

Travis Henrick - 21/02/19

What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

sunnydsunset2014 -

Passo 9

Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissano il connettore metallico della batteria alla scheda logica.

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - 23/09/16

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - 08/10/16

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen - 10/10/16

It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

Zachariah Sampson - 06/04/21

Passo 10

Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.

Passo 11

Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Stai molto attento a far leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Premendo sullo zoccolo del connettore o sulla scheda logica, potresti distruggere lo zoccolo o danneggiare i componenti vicini della scheda.

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Jona Wolff - 31/08/17

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

Peter Hill - 20/03/18

Passo 12

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips #000 che fissano la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale alla scheda logica:
Due viti da 1,3 mm
Una vite da 1,7 mm
Una vite da 3,25 mm
È particolarmente importante in questo passo tenere traccia delle viti in vista del riassemblaggio. Utilizzare le viti da 3,25 mm o quella da 1,7 mm nel foro inferiore destro provocherebbe un danno significativo alla scheda logica, impedendo al telefono di avviarsi regolarmente.
Stai attento a non forzare in fase di avvitamento. Se le viti non rientrano facilmente nella loro sede, potrebbero essere della misura sbagliata, quindi evita di forzarle.

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - 06/09/16

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

Fredrick Apel - 14/01/17

I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

K Jansen - 07/05/17

good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

travismlive - 10/12/17

When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

Chandler Perez - 13/05/17

no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

akronymus - 11/10/18

did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

matt - 18/02/18

Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

Christopher - 24/01/19

*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

akronymus - 11/10/18

is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

Ali Ahsan - 26/04/19

Hi Ali,

You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

Arthur Shi - 29/04/19

Passo 13

Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale.

Passo 14

Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e del cavo sensore.
Accertati di far leva soltanto sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

domarius - 21/04/21

Passo 15

Prima di disconnettere o riconnettere i cavi in questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata.
Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore del cavo dell'LCD.
I connettori dell'LCD e del digitizer sono raggruppati insieme sullo stesso cavo, quindi il distacco del connettore LCD dovrebbe scollegare entrambi i connettori. Controlla bene che entrambi i cavi siano completamente staccati prima di rimuovere il display.
Nel rimontaggio, il cavo dell'LCD può saltare fuori dal suo connettore. Uno schermo bianco oppure delle linee bianche sul display possono essere causate da una cattiva connessione. In questo caso, riconnetti il cavo ed esegui un ciclo di accensione. Il miglior modo di eseguire un ciclo di accensione è di staccare e poi riconnettere la batteria.

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - 06/02/15

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince - 21/04/15

Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

terrymccallum - 29/04/17

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - 08/06/15

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston - 11/06/15

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - 22/01/16

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke - 02/04/16

I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

ewistey - 20/12/18

Passo 16

Rimuovi il gruppo pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

Very clear and percise.

Jessica Fader - 04/03/18

Passo 17

Spegni completamente il tuo telefono prima di rimuovere il vassoio e la scheda SIM.
Inserisci uno strumento di estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.
Premi sullo strumento di estrazione SIM per far uscire il vassoio.
Questa azione può richiedere di applicare una forza abbastanza significativa.

Passo 18

Rimuovi il gruppo vassoio della scheda SIM dall'iPhone.
In fase di rimontaggio, assicurati che la scheda SIM sia correttamente orientata rispetto al vassoio.

Passo 19

Svita la vite a croce Phillips da 2 mm che tengono in posizione l'estrattore SIM.

Passo 20

Con delle pinzette rimuovi l'estrattore SIM dal telefono.
Nota l'orientamento per il rimontaggio: la parte elevata dell'estrattore dovrebbe essere la più vicina alla parte inferiore del telefono.

Passo 21

Fai scorrere la punta di uno spudger tra la batteria e il jack cuffie per dispiegare la linguetta adesiva della batteria.

I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

jacobstevens - 06/09/16

I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

ForumHermit - 21/03/18

the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

V. Jones - 15/02/17

I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

Benjamin Browning - 22/02/17

The adhesive tab has a small extension tab with a hole in the end closest to the ear phone jack. If you stick the tip of your spudger through it, you can use it to lift one end and get you started.

John Pitts - 25/06/19

Passo 22

Stacca la linguetta adesiva della batteria dal telefono.

It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

V. Jones - 08/04/18

Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.

guardian10 -

Passo 23

Taglia la linguetta adesiva nera della batteria fra le due strisce adesive bianche in modo da separarle.

Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

V. Jones - 15/02/17

Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

V. Jones - 08/04/18

Passo 24

Cerca di tenere le strisce piatte e non arricciate nel corso di questa procedura; le strisce piegate o ritorte si incolleranno su se stesse e si romperanno invece di venire fuori senza problemi.
Tira lentamente una delle linguette adesive della batteria allontanandolo dalla batteria stessa, verso la parte inferiore del telefono.
Tira con fermezza, mantenendo una tensione costante sulla striscia finché non scivola fuori dalla sua posizione tra la batteria e il case posteriore. Per risultati ottimali, tira la striscia a un angolo di 60° o inferiore.
Fai delicatamente passare la striscia attorno all'angolo e verso il lato della batteria. Stai attento a non farla interferire con altri componenti interni dell'iPhone.
La striscia si allungherà sino a varie volte la sua lunghezza originale. Continua a tirare e, se necessario, afferra la striscia più vicino alla batteria, finché la striscia esce completamente.

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

lew - 05/11/14

When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

lynn - 28/01/15

Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/01/15

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

mwtort - 22/03/15

My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

jukkaharkonen - 15/04/15

This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

Achim Graether - 23/12/15

I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

lmusolino - 30/01/16

@lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

John Mark Booc - 18/03/16

This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

Peter Rousu - 18/08/16

Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

Shsjsjakkaka - 14/01/17

If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

Shsjsjakkaka - 14/01/17

the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

matt - 18/02/18

Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

Steve Hind - 12/06/18

Both my tabs broke immediately with the gentlest tug, as if they were dry and ready to come off. So I heated the back of the phone with warm heat from a hair dryer and was able to push a thin flexible plastic piece (thinner than a credit card but strong enough to be pushed in) under the corner of the battery near its connector. It would go in only so far, so I kept reheating and pushing it in more, moving up the long side of the battery. This works because you’re pushing toward / against the frame side so you can exert enough pressure. You don’t need to pry or lift the battery up (and you shouldn’t anyway because you may damage the components along the side of the battery and/or the battery itself) until it’s mostly loose.

David K Slay - 14/11/19

This part was really difficult. After reading other comments, I applied heat right away (I balanced my phone and screen (rubber-banded like in step 8) on top of the iOpener - had to be very careful to keep it balanced). The case-side strip pulled around the battery corner and snapped; the logic board-side strip snapped immediately.

I couldn’t get plastic cards or triangle wedges in far enough to get leverage; I carefully used two spudgers to pry up the bottom of the battery. From there I used tweezers to grab the edge of the logic-side adhesive. It took many tries to grab enough to continue to pull it, but once I had it, I got the whole strip out. Then my battery was loose enough to pry it up and off of the other strip with a plastic card.

It’s definitely easier to get the battery out if you can get the logic board-side strip out. The strips came out easier when I stopped pulling and grabbed the base instead of pulling from the end. I tried to keep the angle as flat as possible but there’s not much room.

Renee - 15/02/20

Both tabs broke. I tried heat multiple times and alcohol. Based on this step the rating on this repair should be changed to difficult. It is too easy to damage other cables. I’ve damaged some cable but I don’t know which one from the videos. I would say if you get to this point and it doesn’t come up easily after applying heat, go to a professional or risk further damage to other components. It is very difficult to use the card to pry without damaging something.

Carolyn Amparan - 18/09/20

Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

Carolyn Amparan - 18/09/20

Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

Carolyn Amparan - 18/09/20

THE FLOSS is where it’s at. Heat slowly and work the floss through.

eastkyprog -

When I (gently) start pulling strips, they both TORN.

After try out (unsuccessfully) different recommendations, it works out the one with (pure) ALCOHOL.

My way was in particularly like that: I take SPUDGER and wet it FLAT-HEAD with alcohol. And start to pry up battery from left side, near middle (there's some more space). Step by step, for a LITTLE bit, deeper and deeper, and EVERYTIME to wet spudger with alcohol. So all way down to bottom, and from the bottom (not from the motherboard on the right, and upper side at all). It takes couple (or more) dozens prying ups. Eventually battery came off, and leave adhesive at the case (removed with alcohol and spudger again).

C O -

Passo 25

Ripeti per rimuovere la seconda striscia.

I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

V. Jones - 15/02/17

At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

Jack Chang - 13/04/18

The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.

Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!

I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.

Alex Keen - 21/05/20

Passo 26

Rimuovi la batteria dall'iPhone.
Se una, o tutte due, delle strisce adesive si rompe e non riesci a rimuoverla con delle pinzette, non far leva per togliere la batteria dal telefono. Continua con i prossimi passi per rimuovere la tua batteria in tutta sicurezza.

Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

V. Jones - 08/04/18

Passo 27

Applica qualche goccia di alcool isopropilico (>90%) sotto la batteria e lascialo scorrere attorno all'adesivo per ammorbidirlo. L'alcool isopropilico ad alta concentrazione agisce come solvente e asciuga senza lasciare segni, quindi non farà male al tuo iPhone.
Inserisci con cautela una scheda di plastica sotto la batteria dal lato più vicino alla scheda madre.
Non far leva contro la scheda madre, potresti danneggiare il telefono.
Evita di far leva vicino al bordo superiore della batteria, potresti danneggiare il cavo piatto superiore.
Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica dalla parte superiore della batteria verso il basso, premendo verso il bordo del case.
Se necessario, ripeti la stessa procedura dal lato opposto della batteria.

A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

Daniel Boros - 14/11/16

The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

Jeff Suovanen - 16/11/16

If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

Tom Reeve - 12/12/17

I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

Peter Hill - 18/03/18

Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

Sam Goldheart - 19/03/18

Wow. Good luck removing your battery by this method. The adhesive on mine was impossible to remove, finally the battery foil peeled off, the battery was totally destroyed, and I had to scrape the adhesive off the phone bit by bit. Scary to abuse a lithium battery that way… Destroyed my ribbon cable, too, so now I can spend another $30 and a bunch more time… Wow. Not recommended; impossible to accomplish as described. Battery is not removable. Those adhesive strips are from !&&*. There is no reason to use that adhesive in that location, except to deliberately make the phone non-serviceable. Once the adhesive gets old, it just snaps and heat doesn’t help. Good luck.

Torrence Matson - 21/02/19

Well… That was interesting. I dropped my phone this morning at some weird angle and the housing bent a little. I opened the phone only to reveal a torn battery. The adhesive strips were so old they were impossible to remove even after I removed the exploded battery. Just, wow, I never thought a caseless phone drop + a hot summer day would result in this. What a scary thing to see blue-green chemical flames inside a phone! I’ve never seen this happen with a Note 7 so I thought I’d never see a burning battery, but boy was I wrong!

Ryan Scott - 10/06/19

dental floss works great but needs lots of pressure and heat

Kristin Schweppenheiser - 29/06/19

Passo 28

Se la batteria è ancora incollata, segui le nostre istruzioni per riscaldare un iOpener o utilizza un asciugacapelli per riscaldare l'adesivo che fissa la tua batteria al case posteriore.
Disponi l'iOpener sul rovescio dell'iPhone a destra della fotocamera. Spianalo bene in modo che abbia un buon contatto con il retro dell'iPhone.
Lascialo sull'iPhone per circa 90 secondi prima di provare a rimuovere la batteria.
Se usi un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica, riscalda la parte posteriore dell'iPhone finché sia lievemente troppo caldo per essere toccato senza scottarsi.
Non riscaldare direttamente la batteria.
Surriscaldare l'iPhone può far prendere fuoco alla batteria.

you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

Pritchett Harris - 11/07/17

A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

Dan Harris - 31/08/17

Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

iScott - 10/02/18

I always have to do this because the adhesive strips never work because they can’t be pulled out at a flat enough angle. As you heat the back of the case in preparation for battery removal, also load some heat into some kind of smooth, flat metal tool to slide under one end of the battery as you pry it up. This makes for much less prying on the battery and much less chance of damaging it. It also makes for faster removal. The metal spatula tool provided in the fixit Pro Tech Toolkit, Pro Tech Toolkit, (an earlier version of which I use CONSTANTLY and is one of the most used toolkits I have) is perfect for this job.

NMranchhand - 03/08/19

Passo 29

Solleva e rimuovi la batteria dall'iPhone.
Se c'è dell'alcool rimasto nel telefono, puliscilo attentamente o lascialo asciugare all'aria prima di installare la nuova batteria.
Non dovrebbe opporre resistenza. Se la batteria rimane incollata, riscalda l'iOpener e fai leva di nuovo.
Se la tua batteria sostitutiva è fornita in un astuccio di plastica, rimuovilo prima dell'installazione tirandolo dalla parte opposta del cavo a nastro.
Prima di incollare la nuova batteria, collega momentaneamente il suo connettore alla sua presa sulla scheda madre. Questo garantisce che la batteria sia allineata correttamente nel suo alloggio.
Incolla la batteria, scollegala e continua a rimontare il tuo dispositivo.
Se la tua nuova batteria non ha l'adesivo già installato, segui questa guida per rimpiazzare le strisce adesive.
Effettua un hard reset dopo il rimontaggio. Questo può prevenire diversi inconvenienti e semplificare la risoluzione dei problemi.

My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.

John Thomson -

Passo 30

Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il cavo del contatto a molla del pulsante home dall'involucro dell'altoparlante.

Ensure you note the routing of the antenna cable. Reassembly will require that the antenna cable goes above the corner of the speaker enclosure.

plisi - 10/12/16

Passo 31

Svita le viti seguenti che fissano l'involucro dell'altoparlante al case posteriore:
Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm
Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,2 mm

These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

Daniel Beardsley - 17/12/15

The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you

Yashira Cancel - 23/03/18

Passo 32

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare con cautela l'involucro dell'altoparlante dal pannello posteriore.

Passo 33

Rimuovi l'involucro dell'altoparlante. Stai attento a non farlo interferire con il cavo dell'antenna.

I’ve done this twice and still cannot understand why we are removing the speaker before removing the antenna on top of it. It gets in the way, and again when you reverse the instructions when you put the antenna on first and then the speaker… I’ve been swapping those steps instead.

domarius - 07/06/18

Passo 34

Una staffa di contatto è avvolta attorno al foro più a destra dell'altoparlante. Questo piccolo componente può cadere improvvisamente, è meglio quindi rimuoverlo e notarne l'orientazione per il rimontaggio.
La parte piatta della clip di contatto deve appoggiarsi contro l'altoparlante, come illustrato.
La staffa di allineamento sull'estremità del gruppo display è incollata, ma potrebbe cadere se venisse manipolata in modo aggressivo.
L'estremità piegata deve essere di fronte a e in una linea con il bordo esteriore dell'altoparlante.

Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

jacobstevens - 06/09/16

I concur with "jacobstevens". I just left well-enough alone. I made sure that the bracket was intact and that it remained so during the remainder of the procedure so it was ready to go when re-assembling. I also understand why this step exists... CYA!

plisi - 10/12/16

Passo 35

Usa uno strumento di apertura di plastica per scollegare il cavo piatto del connettore Lightning dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 36

Il cavo del connettore Lightning aderisce leggermente a una piastra sulla scheda madre. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare con cautela il cavo.

When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

EdTechMaker - 20/08/14

Passo 37

Scollega il connettore dell'antenna cellulare dalla base della scheda madre.

This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

Tom Chai - 19/06/14

How the !&&* are you supposed to get this back on?! I just can't do it.

leeprobert - 26/05/17

I usually hold the connector in place over the socket with a pair of tweezers, and then press it down with the flat end of a spudger.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/05/17

Passo 38

Svita le viti seguenti che fissano il connettore Lightning al case posteriore:
Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 3,4 mm
Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,2 mm
Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm

The lower left corner (yellow circled) screw has probably "screwed" us - for some reason it just won't start turning. Perhaps some glue under this one, needs heat? Anyone else faced this issue?

Darrell Drake - 19/04/17

I did not when doing this job. The only part that I found had some adhesive was the cellular antenna cable. Perhaps some heat in some cases is necessary, but go easy on it.

Timothy Transue - 20/04/17

Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.

Darrell Drake - 20/04/17

Passo 39

Stacca con cautela il gruppo connettore Lightning dalla cover posteriore.

Passo 40

Forse ti servirà l'estremità di uno spudger per scollegare completamente il gruppo.

Passo 41

Rimuovi il gruppo connettore Lightning.
Una piccola guarnizione di gomma è attaccata al microfono. Assicurati di trasferirla sul nuovo gruppo.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

ypolashek - 26/11/16

Yeah, that darn headphone jack gasket got me. I didn't notice it at all until it fell off the old assembly.

plisi - 10/12/16

The microphone gasket is not really a gasket like an O ring, it is a foam box into which you insert a little metal box on the end of the ribbon cable. Be sure you look at the side of the foam box that faces the bottom of the phone. The wider margin is towards the Lightening connector. The metal box goes up into the bottom of the foam box forming an “L” to the bottom of the phone. It is easier than it looks.

Never saw any gasket for the headphone jack.

Gladephone - 25/08/19

Passo 42

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo controllo audio dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.
Stacca il connettore del cavo della fotocamera posteriore dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.

Passo 43

Un piccolo pezzo di nastro adesivo può coprire la clip di massa della scheda madre. In tal caso usa delle pinzette per rimuoverlo.

Passo 44

Svita le viti seguenti che fissano la clip di massa della scheda madre al case posteriore:
Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,2 mm nel bordo superiore
Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,5 mm

Passo 45

Usa delle pinzette per togliere la clip di massa dalla scheda madre.

Passo 46

Svita le viti seguenti che fissano la scheda madre alla cover posteriore:
Due viti a croce Phillips da 2,3 mm
Tre distanziali a vite da 2,7 mm
Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare una punta per distanziali a vite iPhone e l'impugnatura cacciavite.
In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a lama piatta, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

Passo 47

Tenendo il telefono in posizione orizzontale, solleva l'estremità inferiore della scheda logica in modo da poter afferrarla con le tue dita.
Allontana la scheda logica dalla fotocamera posteriore abbastanza da svelare il coperchio dorato di contatto sotto l'estremità superiore della scheda.
Rimuovi il coperchio dorato di contatto dal foro filettato nel case posteriore e mettilo da parte.

Passo 48

Gira la scheda madre verso i pulsanti controllo volume per svelare il connettore dell'antenna.
Non provare ancora a rimuovere la scheda madre dal case posteriore, perché il retro è sempre collegato da un cavo di antenna.

Hello, how do i disconnect the antenna on the rear case to put on the new rear case, this tear down never removes this antenna from the rear case.

Daniel Ambrose - 13/02/17

Passo 49

Scollega il connettore dell'antenna sul retro della scheda madre.

Passo 50

Togli la scheda madre dalla cover posteriore.

Passo 51

Svita le due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 1,5 mm che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore al case posteriore.

Think the title was meant to say “Rear Facing Camera”, not “Audio Control and Power Button Cable.

Cooper Yancey - 17/01/18

Passo 52

Togli la staffa della fotocamera posteriore.

Passo 53

Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore.

Passo 54

Svita le viti seguenti che fissano il motore di vibrazione al case posteriore:
Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm
Una vita a croce Phillips da 2,2 mm

Passo 55

Togli il motore di vibrazione.

Passo 56

Rimuovi le viti seguenti che fissano la staffa del contatto del gruppo superiore alla cover posteriore:
Un distanziale a vite da 3,0 mm
Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,5 mm

Passo 57

Togli la staffa del contatto del gruppo superiore dal case posteriore.
Un piccolo ammortizzatore di gomma può cadere dalla parte superiore della staffa. Stai attento a non perderlo.

Passo 58

Rimuovi ogni pezzo di schiuma adesiva che copre le viti vicino alla cavità della fotocamera.

Passo 59

Svita le due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 1,4 mm che tengono in posizione la staffa del pulsante sospendi/riattiva.

Passo 60

Usa la punta di uno spudger per piegare con cautela la staffa del pulsante sospendi/riattiva dalla parte superiore del case posteriore verso il basso.
Prendi delle pinzette per afferrare e rimuovere il pulsante.
Per il rimontaggio nota l'orientamento. La barra metallica dovrebbe trovarsi al livello della parte inferiore del pulsante.
Se non riesci a far presa sul pulsante accensione dall'interno del case, usa uno spudger per spingerlo dall'esterno.

Passo 61

Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm dalla staffa del pulsante mute.

This step totally confused me.

I call this the "Mute" button.

And of course, the photo is rotated 90 degrees from most of the phitos in steps leading up to this. (These are great photos, by the way.)

Boyd Waters - 30/03/17

Agreed, the word choice was a bit odd! It's fixed now—"hold button switch" has been changed to "mute/silent switch." Thanks for your comments!

Jeff Suovanen - 02/05/17

Passo 62

Togli la clip della staffa del pulsante mute e mettila da parte.
In fase di rimontaggio, la clip della staffa si mette sopra la staffa del pulsante mute. Assicurati che la parte angolata sia a destra.
Usa la punta di uno spudger per riovolgere la staffa del pulsante mute verso il basso.

Passo 63

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il pulsante mute.
Nota l'orientamento per il rimontaggio: la linea rossa deve essere sopra il pulsante. La tacca sul retro del pulsante deve essere nella stessa posizione del pulsante meccanico sul cavo, con il quale deve associarsi.

Passo 64

Svita la vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissa la staffa del pulsante volume alla parete laterale.

Passo 65

Usa la punta di uno spudger per piegare la staffa del pulsante volume dalla parete laterale verso il basso. Rimuovi il pulsante volume.

whilst reassembling you have to make sure the plastic buttons are the right way around, the side with no lip should go upwards.

whiteisjustright - 10/06/19

Passo 66

Con la stessa punta dello spudger stacca il cavo del pulsante sospendi/riattiva dalla cover posteriore.

Passo 67

Fai scorrere con cautela lo spudger sotto il cavo del gruppo flash per separarlo dal telefono.

whist reassmbling the flash wouldnt go in, i then found the little lense part of the flash was still attached to the frame, and i had to remove it so the new flash would fit, this may just be on my replacement part the lense is included but if you are having trouble getting it in, check to see if there is a lense already there or not.

whiteisjustright - 10/06/19

Passo 68

Solleva il cavo superiore dalla destra verso l'alto per staccarlo dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case.

Passo 69

Fai estrema attenzione mentre stacchi dal telefono l'estremità del cavo vicina al connettore del motore di vibrazione.
Non toccare i contatti; il grasso delle dita può corrodere il metallo e impedire un collegamento corretto.
Puoi rimuovere il gruppo dal telefono.

Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

edunbarr - 22/02/15

Thank You edunbarr :)

Daniel Ambrose - 13/02/17

Sostituzione case posteriore iPhone 5c

Introduzione

Strumenti

Ricambi

3 commenti