Sostituzione cavo controllo audio e pulsante accensione iPhone 5c

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

cool i diden't now

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

Using a can works really well!

I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

Very clear and percise.

the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.

Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.

Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!

I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.

Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.

On reassembly, it was tricky for me to figure out where the gold clip went. It goes against the back case, upside down and holds the logic board grounding clip, mentioned in Step 34. The upper hole of the grounding clip goes into the gold one, with the opening of the gold one oriented to the right. The 1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall, removed in Step 33, holds them both together.

On this step, a small threaded barrel came off of the bottom of the housing, once I lifted off the logic board. Upon reassembly, it goes back in with the tiny threaded part down, into the silver piece near the rear facing camera. There is a little hole in the silver to receive it. When the logic board goes back down it matches up with a small silver hole and then secured to the rear case with the 2.7 mm standoff screw furthest to the left in the photo in Step 35. Take care not to put the barrel in upside down because it is very hard to get unscrewed once placed incorrectly.

Think the title was meant to say “Rear Facing Camera”, not “Audio Control and Power Button Cable.

whilst reassembling you have to make sure the plastic buttons are the right way around, the side with no lip should go upwards.

whist reassmbling the flash wouldnt go in, i then found the little lense part of the flash was still attached to the frame, and i had to remove it so the new flash would fit, this may just be on my replacement part the lense is included but if you are having trouble getting it in, check to see if there is a lense already there or not.

Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

Thank You edunbarr :)