Sostituzione gruppo scheda logica MacBook Pro 15"Touch Bar 2018

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, devi disabilitare l'Auto Boot del tuo Mac. Auto Boot accende il tuo Mac non appena apri il coperchio e può essere attivato accidentalmente in fase di smontaggio. Usa questa guida oppure segui le istruzioni abbreviate qui sotto per disabilitare l'Auto Boot. Questo comando potrebbe non funzionare su tutti i Mac.
Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
Ora puoi spegnere in sicurezza il tuo Mac e aprire la copertura inferiore senza accenderlo per sbaglio.
Quando la riparazione è terminata e il tuo Mac è stato riassemblato con successo, abilita nuovamente l'Auto Boot con il comando seguente:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

Macrepair SF - 02/07/19

@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 03/07/19

Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

Dan -

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Kyle B - 22/10/19

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

Cool_Breeze - 19/11/19

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Brian - 07/02/20

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

Nursat b - 26/08/20

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Patrick Machacek - 27/11/20

Not able to do that with damaged screen

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Adrian Vizik - 16/01/21

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

Roberto Enrieu - 22/01/21

running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

result: `AutoBoot %00`

Marek Polák - 01/02/21

Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

Grant Ormsby - 11/03/21

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

tommy404 - 28/04/21

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

hatuxka -

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

bcardanha -

I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

peter sussex -

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

johann beda -

When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

Mircea Comanici -

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

Ed Mease -

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

G Sena -

Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

maël muzelet -

Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

Claire Miesch -

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

Tom Markham -

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

arichard2401 -

For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

Nicholas R Licato -

Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

Cédric Bontems -

After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

webrockers -

I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

webrockers -

Passo 2

Prima di iniziare, spegni completamente e stacca dall'alimentazione il tuo MacBook Pro. Richiudi il display e ribalta il laptop mettendolo a faccia in giù.
Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti che fissano la cover inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
Quattro viti da 4,7 mm
Due viti da 6,6 mm
Fai caso al fatto che le viti escono leggermente angolate: dovrai poi rimontarle nello stesso modo.
Nel corso dell'intera procedura, tieni traccia di ogni vite e accertati che ognuna venga rimessa esattamente dove è stata estratta per evitare danni al dispositivo.

I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.

Juan Ignacio Fernández García -

Passo 3

Posiziona e quindi premi una ventosa vicino al bordo anteriore della cover inferiore, tra i fori delle viti.
Tira la ventosa giusto quanto basta per aprire una piccola fessura sotto la cover inferiore.

Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.

Greek Taylor -

Passo 4

Fai scorrere la punta di un plettro di apertura nella fessura che hai appena creato sotto la cover inferiore.
Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo più vicino e quindi fino a metà del lato del MacBook Pro.
Questa azione consente di sganciare la prima delle clip nascoste che fissano il case inferiore. Dovresti sentire le clip che si sbloccano.

Passo 5

Ripeti il passo precedente dal lato opposto, usando il tuo plettro di apertura per sganciare la seconda clip.

Passo 6

Solleva il bordo anteriore della cover (il lato opposto alla cerniera del display) giusto quanto basta per poter infilare la punta delle dita e avere una buona presa.
In questa fase si dovrebbero sganciare, se non l'hanno già fatto in precedenza, due ulteriori clip nascoste vicino al centro della cover.
Non alzare la cover più di 2-3 cm e non cercare di rimuoverla già ora.

Passo 7

Tira la cover inferiore con decisione per farla scorrere verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandola dal lato con le cerniere) per separare l'ultima delle clip che trattiene il case.
Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
Tira in piano e non verso l'alto.
Questa azione può richiedere molta forza.

With the amount of force needed to carefully pull the back panel out, this caused the back panel to scratch the battery. I don't see or hear any expansion, but this still has me concerned.

gladgura - 20/02/20

this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.

Oleksii Toldaiev -

The amount of force required for removing the bottom cover is absolutely ridiculous. Almost feels like i'm about to push my MacBook towards the wall the second it comes off.

Be careful, I ended up breaking 2 grounding pins on the motherboard last time I tried opening my computer up.

techtalkf -

PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!

Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.

I hope iFixit will correct this step.

Kamil Roman - 20/08/22

Came here to share exactly this.

Robert -

That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!

VovS -

If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.

Mark Cohen -

I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.

Martin Lundgren -

Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.

Kirill Chernov (PowerDoge) - 29/01/24

You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.

It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.

There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.

Cary B -

Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.

Anders Markstrom -

Passo 8

Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
Per rimontare il case:
Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip a scorrimento vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere la cover verso la cerniera. Lo scorrimento si dovrebbe arrestare non appena le clip si agganciano.
Quando le clip a scorrimento sono perfettamente agganciate e la cover sembra correttamente allineata, premi con decisione la cover stessa per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste. Dovresti sentire lo scatto quando le clip si bloccano.

If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).

Joe Emenaker - 08/08/20

Passo 9

Solleva e rimuovi lo sticker isolante che copre la scheda della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica dalla parte più vicina alla batteria.
Se la cover non si stacca facilmente, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante e prova di nuovo.
Se la cover non rientra perfettamente nella sua posizione in fase di rimontaggio, prova a ruotarla di 180°. Deve essere orientata in modo corretto per far sì che i pad adesivi sottostanti entrino in contatto con le viti della scheda.

i need a ziff connector flap for step 10

Gregg Gorin -

Passo 10

Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
Usa uno spudger per alzare delicatamente la linguetta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.

Passo 11

Scollega il cavo dati della scheda della batteria facendolo scorrere fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Tira rimanendo parallelo alla scheda logica, in direzione del cavo.

Passo 12

Blocca, sollevandola, la linguetta di blocco del connettore al lato opposto del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.

Passo 13

Fai scorrere lateralmente il cavo della scheda dati della batteria fuori dal suo zoccolo e rimuovi del tutto il cavo.
Accertati di non rimontare questo cavo al contrario o ribaltato. Nella posizione corretta, lo sticker indicatore dell'intrusione di liquidi è rivolto in alto, disposto direttamente sopra la vite del connettore di alimentazione della batteria.

Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?

Jorgio -aigleBrun- -

Passo 14

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la vite a testa piana che fissa il connettore di alimentazione della batteria.

Passo 15

Usa uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando la batteria stessa.
Solleva il connettore a un'altezza sufficiente per tenerlo separato dal suo zoccolo. Se entrasse accidentalmente in contatto mentre lavori, si potrebbe danneggiare il tuo MacBook Pro.

Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.

Brian Tibbels - 30/07/20

Agreed - once this is back in place, the system is energized, you run the risk of creating little sparks or worse if metal objects such as cover brackets accidentally touch areas of the logic board.

bkbkbk -

Passo 16

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm che fissano la cover di supporto di connettori del cavo del trackpad e della tastiera.
Rimuovi la cover.

I didn’t have T3 but T4 worked ;)

Martin Lundgren -

For my 2018 model year MBP, all the "T3" screws referenced here and later in the guide were actually T4 for me.

Mint137 - 01/03/24

Passo 17

Usa uno spudger per scollegare il cavo del trackpad sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.

Passo 18

Applica una modesta quantità di calore al cavo a nastro del trackpad per ammorbidire l'adesivo che lo tiene fissato alla batteria.
Puoi usare un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica, ma in ogni caso stai attento a non surriscaldare la batteria. Il cavo deve essere caldo, ma non al punto da non poterlo toccare.

Passo 19

Stacca con cautela dalla batteria il cavo del trackpad e spingilo dove non dia fastidio.
Non piegare o tirare il cavo. Se incontri dei problemi a staccarlo, non forzarlo: applica altro calore e prova di nuovo.

Passo 20

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le 13 viti che fissano il gruppo del trackpad:
Nove viti da 5,8 mm
Quattro viti da 4,9 mm
Queste viti sono di aspetto molto simile, quindi non confonderle.
Aggiungere un po' di frenafiletti quando rimonti le viti può aiutare a impedire che possa allentarsi con il passare del tempo
Rimetti al loro posto le viti senza avvitarle del tutto e controlla l'allineamento del trackpad prima di serrarle.

I dont have the “clicky” feedback from my trackpad anymore - please advise how to fix this

Shadi Saif - 25/01/21

The "clicky" feedback is achieved by electromagnet on the bottom, so for anyone like me who wanted to make sure it is working before connecting battery - it will not.

Oleh Kasian -

(MacBook Pro 2019 15” 2 years old) There are 4 screws (2 on the left and 2 on the right, each pair held down by a black metal piece) next to the uppermost 5.8mm screws. What is the size/kind of screw are these? I’d like to purchase these missing items? Please help. A suspicious technician tried to scam me out of money. I asked for my computer back before they could charge me. I decided to do the repairs myself. When I received my laptop back and followed Ifixit instructions I found 2 screws missing and they replaced the original with an unrecognizable rusty screw on the farthest left screw hole, and the black metal pieces were missing as well.

Alathia Kaye -

Passo 21

Fai ruotare lievemente il display per aprirlo, ma lascia capovolto il MacBook. Il gruppo trackpad dovrebbe separarsi e rimanere di piatto sul display.
Sfila delicatamente il cavo a nastro del trackpad attraverso la sua feritoia nello chassis.

do not turn the touchpad over, as there are 4+5 very thin spacers/washers, and you might lose them. only the next step warns you about this. dont be me!

George Kiss - 04/02/23

Passo 22

Mentre rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad, stai molto attento a non perdere le nove piccole rondelle metalliche sopra gli alloggiamenti delle viti. Non ci vuole davvero molto a farle volare via e a perderle.
Rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad.

Und was wenn eine Trackpad Metallscheibe verloren geht?????Genau das ist mir gerade passiert. Muss ich mein Macbook jetzt wegschmeißen? HELP!

Frank -

Passo 23

Usa uno spudger per scollegare la tastiera sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.

Yeah, nah. I'm going to be using Steve's method from Tronics fix to replace the battery in mine.

I'm not messing around pulling the entire logic board out. 😁

Cary B -

Passo 24

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 3,5 mm che fissano la cover disposta sopra il cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo.
Rimuovi la cover del cavo flessibile della scheda display.

I was able to complete this procedure successfully without removing the logic board. I don’t use any liquid adhesive remover. I employ A rubber type silicon rubber-semi stiff spatula used for putting icing on cakes. Use careful leveraged prying, sliding under battery to break the adhesive seal. Also careful application of heat with a heat gun being careful to not damage the speakers. I remove all logic board screws, disconnect all service cables including USB C caps on both sides. The goal is to be able to carefully ”lift” The lower edge of logic board most proximal to the battery enough to allow the ribbon cable to clear the “ridge” that is on rear edge of the battery compartment, Thus allowing you to pull the battery back horizontally towards The front edge laptop and out. I use popsicle sticks to keep the logic board lifted. Careful not to bend the board or break it! You need about 1/8” of clearance. 99% isopropyl alcohol libera dabbed on with a Q-tip to adhesive residue will clean it off.

Macrepair SF -

I had some issues using my T3 bit for most of these screws. Had to use a T4. Strange because I do not use either of those bits often, so I would assume they are still in good shape. Using a T3 felt like I was going to round out each of the screws. Wonder if anyone else experienced this same thing? I'm using the 'Pro Tech Toolkit' by iFixit.

Michael Stein -

Passo 25

Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le due viti da 1,7 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda dello schermo.
Rimuovi la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda del display.

Help! I stripped the T3 Screw!! ?

J S - 15/03/21

I also did this

jerryrobsonjr -

Both of these screws also stripped for me. I’m not sure taking extra care would have helped: they stripped almost instantly and felt corroded. I basically continued by carefully manually turning out the right screw head using a regular, (slightly larger than T3) philips driver (and other small tools) until the head popped off the screw and one side of the bracket released. Then the bracket can be lifted and the other screw can be loosened using upward pressure. Upon replacement I basically used a small amount of high viscosity “gel” super glue (or epoxy) to reattach the right side of the bracket.

capecodnative -

Ok, I stripped it too. Feels like it isn't a t3 screw... Using the t3 bit from ifixit kit. Have a bite when turning clockwise but won't bite counter clockwise

Chi Wang -

Tried with another T3 bit (was using the T3 bit from ifix battery kit) and manage to remove one screw. The other one stripped too much but followed the recommendation from above comment about lifting the bracket

Chi Wang -

And now? It's definitely not T3. What the hell do I do now...

Marina Llopis -

Hey everyone, I stripped these screws also. Buy some VamPliers (5" Minis VT-001-5). These will get those screws out. I did the same thing and they worked! Amazon has them.

Thom Hunter Pratt -

Another one here with a stripped T3 screw at this section. Was the right screw for me. Got is out using a T4 bit.

Kris Goodman -

Passo 26

Fai leva con lo spudger per sollevare e disconnettere il cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda stessa.

Having a lot of trouble getting this connector to re seat into its slot. It just won't snap back in. I've been trying for 30 mins. It doesn't appear to be damaged, but it just won't go back in and the display isn't working.

Josh Rogers -

Passo 27

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 2,0 mm che fissano ciascuna delle cover delle due cerniere (due viti per ognuna).

Passo 28

Rimuovi le due cover delle cerniere.

Passo 29

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 2,4 mm che bloccano la piastrina di copertura dei connettori del Touch ID e del jack cuffie.
Rimuovi la piastrina.

Here is a first! I did not notice this when disassembling but spent a bit of time validating I had reassembled things correctly. After 35 years of this stuff, you don’t see much new - just smaller. !

—->The 2.4 mm screw closest to the hinge screws into the logic board screw circled in green T8 (larger head)at step 47.

Try finding that screw in your bucket of spares!

Brian Eustis - 08/07/20

Passo 30

Scollega il cavo del jack cuffie sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.

Passo 31

Scollega il pulsante di accensione e il sensore Touch ID sollevando il relativo connettore dalla scheda logica.

This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.

Macrepair SF - 16/04/20

Passo 32

Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi la vite da 1,3 mm che fissa la staffa che copre il connettore del digitizer Touch Bar.

Passo 33

Con delle pinzette, fai scorrere la staffa verso il bordo laterale del MacBook Pro finché non è libera dalla linguetta dotata di fessura sulla scheda logica.
Rimuovi la staffa.

Passo 34

Disconnetti il cavo del digitizer Touch Bar sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.

Passo 35

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del display del Touch Bar.
Rimuovi la staffa.

Passo 36

Scollega il cavo del display del Touch Bar facendo leva per sollevare il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.

Right above the connector, there might be a chip attached instead of an empty space as shown in the photos. The connector will be close to the part but they are separate, and the connector can be safely removed.

yqy980210 -

Passo 37

Usando un cacciavite Torx T3:
Rimuovi le due viti da 1,3 mm che fissano a sinistra la cover del cavo flessibile Thunderbolt.
Rimuovi altre due viti da 1,3 mm che fissano a destra la cover del cavo flessibile Thunderbolt.

Passo 38

Rimuovi le staffe di copertura da entrambi gli zoccoli del cavo Thunderbolt.

Passo 39

Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo flessibile Thunderbolt di sinistra sollevandolo dalla scheda logica.
Fai leva dal lato interno, quello più vicino alla ventola.
Spingi delicatamente il connettore del cavo flessibile sul lato, in modo che non possa interferire nel corso della successiva rimozione della scheda logica.

Passo 40

Ripeti l'operazione per staccare il connettore del cavo flessibile Thunderbolt sul lato opposto.
Piega delicatamente sul lato il connettore del cavo flessibile in modo che ci sia spazio per estrarre la scheda logica senza che questa si impigli.

Passo 41

Scollega i due connettori degli altoparlanti infilando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto ciascun cavo, in corrispondenza del suo connettore.
Torci l'attrezzo oppure usalo per far leva per disconnettere entrambi gli altoparlanti.

Both had a dab of glue underneath. I used heat gun to loosen.

Macrepair SF - 15/04/20

On this step, it helped to use the tip of sharp tweezers to open the small metal tab of the connector to the side.

Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp - 11/01/21

After disconnecting the speaker connector, does the speaker just come out, or is it glued or screwed in place? All I need is to Replace the Right Speaker with a New one. This guide gets me to this point but doesn’t address replacing the speaker. Would like to know if it’s more complicated than that before I get started… Thanks

Would be nice to have a guide just for Speaker Replacement. Thanks

Chad Gagnon - 04/12/21

My right speaker doesn't work now because the cable and connector disconnected from the logic board. From one problem to another now... What should I do?

Blake Johnson -

⚠️ DON'T DO THIS FOR THE LEFT SPEAKER!

The right speaker has a six-pin connector which is wider than the spadler. The procedure described is correct.

But the left speaker has a four-pin connector, narrower than the flat end of your spadler. If you slide it under the mat and lift, even gently, you will pull the connector off the motherboard.

And, like me, you'll get the same problem as Blake Johnson.

PS : Why six and four pins for a speaker?

Francis Gernet -

Passo 42

Stacca l'eventuale nastro adesivo di copertura dello zoccolo del connettore del cavo del microfono.

Wenn möglich das Klebeband nicht abziehen! Zwei Schritte weiter bist Du froh darum.

Stephan Zenger - 28/10/20

Passo 43

Apri la linguetta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo del microfono facendo leva per sollevarla dalla scheda logica.

During reassembly, when trying to lock the ZIF connector flap, the flap jumped out of the connector.

If this happens to you and you are lucky, as I was, maybe it is not broken. It is possible to fix it, but you will need dexterity and patience as this is a very tiny part.

I had to go and get my watchmaker eyeglass to actually see what was going on.

I also found this iFixit tutorial. Here is the link so you don't have to look for it:
Repositionnement du clapet de connecteur de nappe flexible

Cédric Bontems -

Passo 44

Disconnetti il microfono tirando il suo cavo in direzione della ventola finché non è libero dal suo alloggiamento.
Se possibile, tira sul nastro attaccato al cavo invece che sul cavo stesso, riducendo così il rischio di danneggiamento.

At this stage, when reassembling, I did disconnect the zif connector locking flap.

If this happens to you, it is not necessarily broken. It can be fixed with very fine tweezers, a good magnifier, and a bit of patience.

I had to go and get my watchemaker magnifier to achieve this.

Here is a link to the tutorial if you need it:

Repositionnement du clapet de connecteur de nappe flexible

Cédric Bontems -

Passo 45

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la singola vite da 2,9 mm che fissa l'insieme del cavo di antenna.

Passo 46

Stacca tutti tre i cavi di antenna sollevandoli uno alla volta dal proprio zoccolo.
Fai scorrere le pinzette oppure l'estremità piatta dello spudger sotto ciascun cavo finché questo non è vicino allo zoccolo e quindi torci l'attrezzo oppure fai leva per scollegare il cavo stesso.
Per riconnettere ciascun cavo, allinea il connettore direttamente sopra il suo zoccolo e quindi premilo finché non scatta in posizione.

Passo 47

Rimuovi le dieci viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica:
Due viti Torx T3 da 2,6 mm
Cinque viti Torx T5 da 2,9 mm
Una vite Torx T5 da 3,7 mm
Una vite Torx T8 (a testa larga) da 3,9 mm
Una vite Torx T8 da 4,0 mm
In fase di rimontaggio, limitati a rimettere le viti al loro posto senza serrarle. Se necessario, regola la pulizia della scheda finché tutti i connettori non sono allineati e solo allora serra definitivamente le viti.

Passo 48

Stacca (ma non rimuovere) dall'adesivo che le tiene sopra le ventole le due strisce antivibrazione in gomma.
Se necessario, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo e staccare più facilmente le strisce.

When replacing the battery, you can leave these, and just lift the logic board, enough so the battery slides out.

nbeijer -

Passo 49

Il gruppo della scheda logica è inserito nella scocca con tolleranze molto ridotte, ma puoi rimuoverlo con maggiore facilità infilando uno spudger sotto il bordo sinistro e applicando una modesta azione di leva.
La scheda logica non dovrebbe opporre resistenza durante l'estrazione. Verifica con cura la posizione dei cavi e, se necessario, ripiegali all'esterno perché non possano impigliarsi nella scheda.
Sollevandola a partire dal lato sinistro, rimuovi la scheda logica.

To ease logic board removal (and especially later for reinstallation), I choose to gently bend each connector away from the logic board & use a little tape to hold them out of the way.

Tech Medic - 08/09/21

Is there new adhesive for fans? I’m into deep . 50/50 shot.. I get his back together ..😩

Gerald Rappaport -

For me, I didn’t have to remove the MOBO. To be honest i didn’t need to follow the steps that require you to remove certain plugs. It may help to remove the speakers and what not, but other than that you don’t have to remove the whole thing. Also this is from my experience. So don’t get mad at me if it doesn’t work. Goodluck!

Neo -

Passo 50

Nella fase di rimontaggio del gruppo della scheda logica:
Verifica l'allineamento delle strisce antivibrazione in gomma e riposizionale se necessario.
Fai passare il gruppo del cavo di antenna attraverso la fessura tra la scheda logica e il dissipatore di calore, facendo in modo che si allinei correttamente mentre cali dall'alto la scheda logica per rimetterla nella sua posizione.
Verifica che non restino cavi intrappolati sotto la scheda mentre la riposizioni. Controlla con attenzione tutti i punti evidenziati.

Would be good to mention (at the end of instructions here) to pay special attention on reassembly that the Touch ID and power button cable does not slip under the logic board at the last moment7

Wolf Naegeli - 29/10/20

Sostituzione gruppo scheda logica MacBook Pro 15"Touch Bar 2018

Introduzione

Strumenti

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