Sostituzione scheda logica MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019

Scritto Da: Adam O'Camb
  • Commenti: 40
Sostituzione scheda logica MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

18

Tempo Necessario

15 - 40 minuti

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire la scheda logica di un MacBook Air 2019.

Nota che il Touch ID non funzionerà dopo aver sostituito la scheda logica. Il sensore Touch ID originale del MacBook è accoppiato in fabbrica esclusivamente al chip T2 sulla scheda logica: senza la procedura di calibrazione proprietaria di Apple, non funzionerà nemmeno una scheda logica sostitutiva originale proveniente da un altro MacBook Air.

Se sostituirai la scheda logica, dovrai installare un sensore Touch ID accoppiato alla scheda stessa per mantenere la funzionalità del Touch ID.

  1. 4a1VSQBgdQXAZah2

    • Prima di iniziare questa procedura dovresti disabilitare la funzionalità Auto Boot del tuo Mac. Auto Boot accende il tuo Mac quando apri il coperchio con lo schermo può attivarsi accidentalmente in fase di smontaggio. Usa questa guida oppure segui le istruzioni abbreviate qui sotto per disabilitare Auto Boot.

    • Se il tuo MacBook funziona con Big Sur v11.1 o successive, disattivare l'Auto Boot potrebbe non funzionare. Puoi procedere normalmente, ma assicurati di scollegare la batteria appena sei dentro.

    • Prima di iniziare, spegni completamente e stacca dall'alimentazione il tuo MacBook Pro. Richiudi il display e ribalta il laptop mettendolo a faccia in giù.

    • Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le viti seguenti:

    • Due viti da 7,9 mm

    • Due viti da 7,1 mm

    • Sei viti da 2,6 mm

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric -

    I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.

    stevebsiegel -

    On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

    johann beda -

    Just did one, and it also had longest screws in the corners.

    maccentric -

    Just did another, and the long ones were in the middle. Definitely poor design and quality control.

    maccentric -

  2. 4Kra6VLGEa3eGmd6

    • Infila le dita tra lo schermo e il case inferiore per sollevare dall'Air la cover stessa.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore.

    • Dopo il rimontaggio, il tuo MacBook potrebbe non accendersi finché non è collegato a una fonte di alimentazione (un caricabatterie per smartphone a bassa potenza potrebbe funzionare). Per testare la tua riparazione, collega il caricatore, attendi due minuti affinché il tuo MacBook si accenda e verifica che tutto funzioni come previsto.

    Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

    facebook -

    translated and true:
    This is a bit difficult because the lower part is still held in the middle by 2 pressure fasteners.

    Tom -

    Are there any suggestions to removing the pressure fasteners more easily?

    Drea Mastromatteo -

  3. xVJrmDjjKX3L1VEp

    • Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore della batteria quanto basta per scoprire lo stesso connettore.

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    • Usa uno spudger per far scorrere il connettore della batteria parallelamente alla scheda logica, tirandolo fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel -

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

    Iron05 -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane -

    I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!

    It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.

    Corey Matsumoto -

    Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).

    Lorenzo Sorbo -

    Where is the gold button? I replaced my battery and my laptop will not start

    Candace Williams -

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    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,4 millimetri che fissano la staffa del connettore del trackpad.

    • A seconda delle condizioni delle tue punte, potrebbe essere più adatto utilizzare un cacciavite Torx T4.

    • Rimuovi la staffa del connettore del trackpad.

    My machine used T4 screws

    johann beda -

    Me too! I tried with T3 and it wasn’t working.

    Rose Alshuaibi -

    I stripped my screws trying to get them out with a t3 driver...

    Aubrey Corcoran -

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    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per far leva sul connettore del cavo del trackpad per sollevarlo dal suo zoccolo.

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    • Se lo speaker di sinistra è già stato disconnesso, salta questo passo.

    • Fai scorrere l'estremità di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante e fai leva per sollevare il cavo stesso e scollegare l'altoparlante.

    • Con il connettore scollegato, fai scorrere l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo per staccare l'adesivo che fissa il cavo alla scheda logica.

    I think step 15 was a mistake because it’s a repeat of step 10.

    Ryan R -

    Yeah, the speaker is already removed at this point.

    Jason _ -

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    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore della porta USB-C.

    • Rimuovi la staffa del connettore USB-C.

    There is no need to remove the logic board!!

    Skip steps 16 through 28 and go to step 29 to release the trackpad cable from the battery. then follow steps to 30 through 33 to release the battery. The battery can be removed by slipping it counter-clockwise under the trackpad cable. The new battery can be slipped in place in the same way.

    Much easier!!

    josephgray -

    Agreed. Took me a minute to realize that I had to slide the top right screw bracket between the logic board and the case to get enough clearance for the rotation. Many thanks.

    w98fxr -

    Removing a few of the logic board screws allowed me to get the to right screw bracket under the logic board to give enough clearance as w98fxr mentioned.

    johann beda -

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    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo USB-C fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    please reconsider removing the logic board and and usb-c connector as is recommended in the prior step. i had a very difficult time reconnecting the usb-c connector

    Mario Obejas -

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    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare la piccola aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo della scheda audio.

    • Fai scorrere il cavo della scheda audio fuori dal connettore ZIF.

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    • Stacca il nastro adesivo nero che copre il connettore del cavo della ventola.

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    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo della ventola.

    • Fai scorrere il cavo della ventola fuori dal connettore ZIF.

    There may not be a locking flap. If not, just pull the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

    rmilton -

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    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,4 mm che bloccano la staffa del cavo di antenna.

    • Rimuovi la staffa del cavo di antenna.

    These are T4 screws

    Richard Arnett -

    The MBA I just finished with were T3. I'm fairly confident with my tools as I recently updated/upgraded nearly my entire set with WiHa. I should also mention the many tools acquired from iFixit over the years have all been were exceptional lasting years. There's no doubt iFixit would have been my source but a close friend went to work for WiHa. His discount(s) & being motivated to help him was a major impact. For anyone not having such an advantage IMHO tools from iFixit are one of the best values anywhere. Let's not forget; buying from iFixit will also help to push "Right to Repair" forward. Here in Minnesota Right to repair ALMOST PASSED. Many believe it will become law during the next session! I can't tell you how proud this would make me. I would obtain as many service manuals as possible and post them all online!!! What a great dream...

    admin -

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    • Inserisci l'estremità punta di uno spudger sotto uno dei cavi di antenna vicini al connettore. Fai leva per alzare e scollegare il cavo.

    • Ripeti l'operazione per l'altro cavo di antenna.

    Be SUPER SUPER CAREFUL pulling off the gold WiFi antenna connectors! As described, use the spludger to press up the black cable just behind the metal connector. I tried to ping them off from the bottom of the gold connector where it clips into the socket on the motherboard and ended up pulling off the SMD sockets from the motherboard - huge and costly mistake that will probably render it useless.

    Neale Whyatt -

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    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,5 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo dello schermo.

    • Rimuovi la staffa del connettore del cavo dello schermo.

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    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo dello schermo.

    How do I reconnect display connector??

    Kris Queck -

    Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.

    Peter Newman -

    Pro tip: You can remove the two T5 screws on the LCD connector side (located to the right of the display connector and to the left of the heat shield). From there, tilt the whole skinny LCD board towards the logic board connector and gently pinch the connector in to the socket. Before laying the skinny board back down, screw in the shield from Step 15 so it doesn’t pop out of the socket again.

    jason4 -

  17. 6TXbngaNJybXtDKP

    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le viti seguenti:

    • Una vite da 5,5 mm

    • Tre viti da 2,6 mm

    • Due viti da 1,9 mm

    These are T5 Torx driver screws

    Richard Arnett -

    Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)

    Marcel Popp -

    During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.

    Andrew Gordon -

    This tip was a huge help, hate these cables lol

    Konrad Anderson -

    The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.

    Peter Newman -

    On my board I needed to use T6 for all the screws except the rubber bumper for which I used a T7. I have a full set of small Torx drivers and tried for the best fit.

    jeffyouell -

    T5 fit best is all the screws on my machine

    johann beda -

  18. eHXdqWRQTLhS4rxV

    • Rimuovi la scheda logica.

Conclusione

Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.

Autore

Adam O'Camb

Membro da: 11/04/15

195148 Reputazione

Un commento

Consulta , para este modelo el cambio de pasta disipadora es diferente a modelos anteriores, es factible colocarle una HY510 HEATSINK?

A lo que voy es que yo desmonte un equipo, y lo revise y veo que la pasta esta medio seca.

Arturo Lugo -