Sostituzione schermo Steam Deck

Scritto Da: Carsten Frauenheim

Commenti: 126

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

2 - 3 ore

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire lo schermo (o display) sul tuo Steam Deck LCD. La procedura è la stessa sia per i vetri standard che per quelli antiriflesso.

Ricorda: segui le procedure di sicurezza generali relative alle scariche elettrostatiche (ESD) durante la riparazione del tuo dispositivo.

Nota: se stai installando un display del modello da 512 GB su un dispositivo da 64/256 GB o viceversa, dovrai assicurarti che sia installato anche un cavo flessibile del display corrispondente. Entrambi i tipi di display vengono forniti con i relativi cavi flessibili specifici.

Nota: Valve ha cominciato a spedire Steam Deck con un nuovo design interno a inizio 2023. Il tuo Steam Deck potrebbe essere diverso da quello delle foto, ma le procedure sono molto simili. Rimuovi la cover posteriore per controllare che versione hai. L'originale avrà una protezione metallica per la scheda madre e una ventola con i lati dritti, come in foto. La nuova versione di Steam Deck avrà una protezione nera per la scheda madre e una ventola con i bordi curvi, come qui.

Strumenti

Ricambi

Passo 1

Accendi il tuo Steam Deck e lascia che la batteria si scarichi sotto al 25% prima di iniziare la riparazione, perché una batteria agli ioni di litio potrebbe essere pericolosa se danneggiata accidentalmente.
Come ulteriore precauzione, Valve raccomanda di mettere il tuo Steam Deck in modalità di conservazione della batteria dal BIOS prima di iniziare riparazioni invasive. Leggi come farlo qui.
Spegni il tuo Steam Deck e scollega tutti i cavi.
Se hai installato una microSD, assicurati di averla rimossa prima di iniziare ad aprire il tuo Steam Deck. Se cercherai di rimuovere il pannello posteriore con una microSD installata, potrebbe spezzarsi a metà.
Durante la riparazione, potrebbe esserti d'aiuto poggiare la Steam deck a faccia in giù nella sua custodia per proteggere gli analogici e prevenire le vibrazioni.

Passo 2

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le otto viti che tengono fermo il pannello posteriore:
Quattro viti da 9,5 mm a filettatura grossa
Quattro viti da 5,8 mm a filettatura fine
Nonostante gli standard, i cacciaviti a croce Phillips possono variare in dimensione e forma: due cacciaviti della stessa dimensione potrebbero entrare in modo diverso sulla stessa vite. Utilizza la dimensione che meglio si adatta alla testa della vite.
Nel corso di tutta la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati di riposizionarla nel suo posto originario per evitare danni al tuo Steam Deck.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

FYI - 512gb version has blue threadlocker on the Orange screws.

Kyle -

Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.

Derek Schmidlin -

Stripped two of the 5.8mm screws, feel pretty dumb, now I'm stuck at step 2 of 43 :|

Yareyous -

Passo 3

Inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura sottile tra la cover posteriore e il guscio frontale, lungo il bordo dell'impugnatura destra.
Se dovessi avere difficoltà nell'inserire il tuo plettro nella riga sull'impugnatura, prova prima iniziando superiormente o inferiormente sul margine lungo, dopodichè fai scivolare il plettro verso l'impugnatura.
Fai leva sulla cover posteriore per sganciare le clip di bloccaggio.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.

Dollique -

Passo 4

Una volta sganciate le clip da uno dei bordi, il resto si stacca facilmente.
Afferra la cover posteriore dall'apertura che hai appena creato e sollevala e allontanala dal dispositivo per sganciare le clip sui lati lunghi.
Rimuovi la cover posteriore.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed

Luis Barbosa (Armored Saint) -

You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here

Andrew Borsje -

Passo 5

Se possiedi una versione aggiornata dello Steam Deck con la copertura nera della scheda madre, salta questo passaggio.
Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il pezzo di foglio d'alluminio che copre la vite nascosta sulla protezione della scheda madre.
Se possibile, cerca di non strappare questo nastro adesivo, così da poterlo riusare. Se necessario, puoi sostituirlo tagliando un pezzo di nastro d'alluminio a misura.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.

Cihan Kocaman -

there are other new version of board shield from 2023.

Gorf Woo -

Is it alright to use the deck without the tape?

Jake -

You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air

Andrew Borsje -

I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...

Miller Schiffer -

wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?

Christian Dud -

If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?

James Bennett -

I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?

rolando norica -

Passo 6

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti che tengono ferma la protezione della scheda:
Una vite da 3,4 mm
Due viti da 3,7 mm
Sulle versioni aggiornate degli Steam Deck sono presenti solo le due viti da 3,7 mm lungo il bordo sinistro.

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.

Michael Dyer -

Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.

David Alexander Hubbard -

Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.

Simon Meacham -

There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.

Rudolfs Skurulis -

Are they m2 3.7mm screws? I am looking to replace mine because they instantly stripped and I had to remove them with needle nose pliers because they were over tightened.

Nick -

I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?

rolando norica -

Passo 7

Rimuovi la protezione della scheda madre.
A seconda dell'età del tuo Steam Deck, questo schermo potrebbe aderire ai cuscinetti termici sottostanti.
Durante il rimontaggio, assicurati che il cavo della ventola sia sul lato dello schermo della scheda e non sia intrappolato sotto.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?

James -

Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro

rolando norica -

Passo 8

Prendi il cavo della batteria dalla sua linguetta e tiralo via dalla scheda madre per scollegarlo.
Altrimenti, puoi usare la punta piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia pulita per spingere delicatamente il connettore fuori dalla presa e poi disconnetterlo completamente a mano.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.

Victor -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).

skzm -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.

Ean Manley -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!

Nick Hight -

Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.

bugwarlabs - 02/06/23

To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.

Dollique -

Does it have to be a clean fingernail?

Steven Murphy -

Passo 9

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere la vite da 3,4 mm che tiene fermo l'SSD.

Passo 10

Dopo aver rimosso la vite dell'SSD, questo si solleverà formando un angolo acuto.
Afferra l'estremità dell'SSD e tiralo via dal suo connettore M.2 sulla scheda madre per rimuoverlo.
Durante il rimontaggio, inserisci l'SSD inclinato allo stesso modo nel connettore sulla scheda e fissalo in posizione orizzontale con la sua vite.

Passo 11

Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere l'adesivo dal lato superiore della ventola.
Se possibile, cerca di non strapparlo, così da poterlo riusare. Usa un po' di calore se vuoi ammorbidire l'adesivo.
Se sembra che l'adesivo stia per strapparsi, usa delle pinzette per staccare un bordo finché non riesci ad afferrarlo con le dita, quindi rimuovi il resto a mano.

It's not super clear from the pictures but you're aiming to remove the black strip, not just the small white square sticker. Use heat and go slowly.

Matt S -

I didnt like using the tweezers for this part because the sticker was so stuck that it felt like using the tweezers was going to rip it. I used the tweezers to lift it a bit and used my finger to gently lift the rest.

Luis B -

You don't need to remove the sticker entirely from the heat sink, just the side where it sticks to the fan. At least on mine, the black sticker was 80% on the heat sink, so it was much easier to just peel off the thin strip from the fan

jamesmiglietta -

If you complete step 10 (removal of heatsink) first you can lift the sticker off of the fan very easily by putting gentle lifting pressure from below the heatpipe. By using the heatpipe to disperse the lifting pressure it reduces the chances of ripping.

I let my steamdeck discharge battery from full to 25% using a high-resource loading screen to apply load (prior to repair), which also had the added benefit of warming all the adhesive in the unit. Made things amazingly easy to work on.

Kyle -

Passo 12

Per gli Steam Deck originali: Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per svitare e rimuovere le due viti che fissano il dissipatore alla scheda madre:
Una vite prigioniera da 3,5 mm
Una vite da 3,4 mm
No, i tuoi occhi non ti stanno ingannando! La terza vite del dissipatore è stata rimossa in precedenza durante lo smontaggio: è anche la vite nascosta dello schermo della scheda.
Per gli Steam Deck aggiornati: Utilizza un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti che fissano il dissipatore di calore alla scheda madre:
Due viti da 2,9 mm
Una da 3,7 mm
Durante il rimontaggio in entrambe le versioni, stringi queste viti nell'ordine (1, 2, 3) come indicato sulla superficie del dissipatore di calore.

Passo 13

Solleva e rimuovi il dissipatore.
Prima di reinstallare il dissipatore, segui questa guida per pulire il dissipatore e l'APU e riapplicare la pasta termica.

Where i can buy this heatsink?

Savatium -

Whats the heat sink application method??

Thedegen -

Whats the thermal paste application type?

Thedegen -

Passo 14

Usa un paio di pinzette per afferrare i bordi del connettore della ventola e tira verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
Tira il cavo della ventola dal conenttore, non dai cavi stessi.

Passo 15

Usa un paio di pinzette per sollevare e rimuovere il nastro adesivo di protezione del Wi-Fi.
Se possibile, cerca di non strappare questo adesivo, così da poterlo riusare. Usa un po' di calore se è necessario per ammorbidire l'adesivo.

The steam deck looks to be shipping now with an additional plastic sheet adhered to the wifi module meant to better retain the connectors in place, that will have to be removed.

Stephen Micheals -

Is there a link to buy a replacement WiFi shield? I seem to have lost mine while taking it apart. I can't seem find one online by searching "WiFi shield, steam deck".

Allen Michael Ubaldo -

Passo 16

Usa un paio di pinzette per afferrare i bordi del connettore dell'altoparlante e sollevalo per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
Tira il cavo dell'altoparlante dal connettore e non dal cavo stesso.

Passo 17

Il modulo Wi-Fi si trova accanto all'SSD sugli Steam Deck aggiornati.
Usa un paio di pinzette per prendere il connettore dell'antenna vicino alla base.
Tira verso l'alto per scollegare il cavo.
Ripeti per il secondo cavo dell'antenna.
Durante il rimontaggio, assicurati che entrambi i cavi dell'antenna siano ricollegati ai loro connettori. Le etichette sui cavi corrispondono ai segni sul modulo Wi-Fi.
Per ricollegare ogni cavo, allinea il connettore direttamente sulla sua presa e poi premi per farlo scattare in posizione.

Passo 18

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo dello schermo.
Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Afferra il cavo dalla linguetta, non dal cavo stesso.

My version has a black flap, so don't think it's not there and pull the connector, instead be careful and the flap will indeed flip up.

dancameron -

Passo 19

Gli Steam Deck aggiornati non hanno questo cavo audio. Se hai una versione aggiornata, salta i prossimi tre passaggi.
Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo audio.

FYI the locking flap was not white, but black on my model.

David VanWormer -

On my second revision Deck this was not a ZIF connector, but a insert connector with no locking mechanism.

kei taniguchi -

Passo 20

Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Afferra il cavo dalla sua linguetta e non dal cavo stesso.

Passo 21

Rimuovi con attenzione il cavo audio dalla batteria.
Il cavo audio è attaccato alla batteria con del leggero adesivo.
Se l'adesivo è ostinato, non forzare il cavo. Scalda leggermente il cavo audio usando un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per ammorbidire l'adesivo.

Passo 22

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo della scheda dei pulsanti .
Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Prendi il cavo dalla linguetta blu, non dal cavo stesso.

Please note, when replacing the button board cable, and when removing the motherboard, there may be adhesive that sticks the DB cable to the ribbon cable underneath it, which is the Interconnect Cable, to the right of the image above.

Since the adhesive will stick that cable to the Interconnect Cable, the DB cable that connects to the BOTTOM of the motherboard may disconnect from its zif connection. You will have to connect the DB cable that connects to the underside of the Steam Deck's motherboard first to ensure the connection from the DB to the button board is established. This can be tested in the BiOS as basic directional pad and A and B buttons should be functional in the BiOS or Recovery Menu.

Opz Sigma -

Passo 23

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti da 3,7 mm che tengono ferma la scheda madre.

I’m stuck at this step, because the two top screws refuse to come loose. I had no issue getting the singular bottom screw out.

CBomb002 -

Same issue here, except the top left screw came out with no issue. The bottom and top right screws don't move at all.

Evander Bailey -

Passo 24

Rimuovi la scheda madre.
I cavi audio e della scheda dei pulsanti sono attaccati al lato inferiore della scheda madre tramite connettori ZIF.

On replacement, check all the way around the motherboard for trapped cables!

Mark H -

Second the above, the DB cable is usually attached to the underside of the motherboard, however due to adhesive that the DB cable is ontop of, when removing the motherboard it can disconnect the DB cable from the motherboard.

Also this is important to make sure that the following aren't inaccessible when re-installing the motherboard:

Heatsink Fan near top-right
MB cable to display near bottom left
Speaker and Wi-Fi cables near bottom right
DB cable that connects underneath Motherboard near bottom left
HD Audio cable underneath Motherboard near bottom right

Opz Sigma -

Peux ton changer le lecteur sd ??

Il est défectueux

d.karimali -

Passo 25

Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere l'adesivo che copre il connettore dello schermo.
Se possibile, cerca di non strappare questo adesivo, così da poterlo riusare. Usa un po' di calore per ammorbidire l'adesivo se necessario.

Passo 26

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo dello schermo.
Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.

If the screen is glowing after turning it back on after re assembly but it’s showing blank, did I not reconnect the display correctly or is it something else?

Noah Buller -

I have the same question.Can anyone can help?

Charles Lin -

me too, is it screen problem? do I need to buy it again? anyone can help?

ardhan catch -

Finally I replace the display cable and it's work.

Hey forks,find some new display cable then change it.

Charles Lin -

Passo 27

Prepara un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo superiore dello schermo per un minuto.
Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica, ma fai attenzione a non surriscaldare lo Steam Deck: gli schermi e le batterie interne sono suscettibili ai danni da calore.

Passo 28

Applica una ventosa all'angolo in alto a sinistra dello schermo premendola per farle fare presa il più vicino possibile al bordo.
Se il tuo schermo è molto crepato, coprirlo con uno strato di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente potrebbe aiutare a far aderire la ventosa. In alternativa, puoi usare nastro adesivo molto forte invece della ventosa. Se niente funziona, puoi incollare con della supercolla la ventosa al vetro rotto.

Passo 29

Tira la ventosa con una forza costante per creare una fessura tra lo schermo e la cornice.
Inserisci la punta di un plettro di apertura nella fessura.
Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm o rischi di danneggiare il pannello del display, il sensore della luce ambientale o il cavo fragile che si trovano al di sotto.

The suction cup simply does not lift up the screen enough to insert the pick - there is no gap. No matter how much heat.

Ebben -

Passo 30

Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo superiore per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 31

Scalda il bordo destro dello schermo per un minuto.

Passo 32

Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo destro per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 33

Scalda il bordo inferiore dello schermo per un minuto.

Passo 34

Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 35

Scalda il bordo sinistro dello schermo per un minuto.
Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo sinistro per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 36

Una volta che hai tagliato intorno al perimetro dello schermo, solleva con attenzione il bordo destro, aprendolo come un libro.
Rimuovi lo schermo.

Passo 37

Durante il rimontaggio:
Guarda l'adesivo del nuovo schermo e abbina ogni striscia al rispettivo lato dello schermo.

Passo 38

Per assicurarti che l'adesivo faccia presa, pulisci per bene tutte le superfici di adesione.
Rimuovi i grandi pezzi di adesivo con la parte piatta di uno spudger o di uno strumento di apertura in plastica.
Non usare strumenti in metallo, poiché possono graffiare la superficie.

Passo 39

Usa del solvente per adesivo o alcool isopropilico (>90%) per rimuovere tutti i residui rimasti. Strofina in una sola direzione con un panno senza lanugine o un filtro del caffè finché non avrai rimosso tutti i residui di adesivo.
L'alcool isopropilico si può solitamente utilizzare in sicurezza sui dispositivi elettronici, ma potrebbe dissolvere alcuni tipi di schiume adesive. Fai attenzione a contenere l'alcool mentre pulisci e non usarne troppo.
Lascia evaporare tutti i residui di alcool isopropilico prima di iniziare il rimontaggio.

Passo 40

Prima di rimuovere qualsiasi pellicola, individua la superficie dove andrà incollata la parte appiccicosa.
Una volta che hai una buona idea di dove ogni striscia andrà posizionata, rimuovi e getta via la pellicola, scoprendo l'adesivo sottostante.
Fai attenzione con gli adesivi scoperti. Nella maggior parte dei casi, non puoi rimuovere e riapplicare le strisce adesive se si incollano nel punto sbagliato.

Passo 41

Tieni la striscia esposta dalle sue linguette e allinea con attenzione il bordo dell'adesivo al bordo esterno dello schermo.
Usa il tuo vecchio schermo come punto di riferimento per capire dove dev'essere posizionata la nuova striscia adesiva sul bordo del nuovo schermo.
Fai attenzione con l'allineamento. Nella maggior parte dei casi, non puoi rimuovere e riapplicare le strisce adesive se si incollano non allineate.
Posiziona l'adesivo sulla superficie e premi fermamente con le dita per fissarlo al suo posto.
Ripeti i due passi precedenti per le altre tre strisce adesive dello schermo.

Adhesive from kit stuck to the inside of the box :(

Beka P -

Oh no! I’m sorry to hear that. Please contact our support and we'll get that resolved!

Carsten Frauenheim -

I skewed up the first attempt because my old glass was shattered along that wide side. Couldn't use it as a guide-- my mistake, so I had to get a second set of adhesives, shipping costs and all.

Here's a tip: 3/4 of the sides, the plastic liners mostly go right up to where the monitor sticks out. Very easy, only one place to go basically. However, there is one side that is a little wider than the others, and if you're auto piloting, you might not notice that the plastic liner does NOT fit snug with the part that the monitor sticks out. You need to make sure the adhesive on the edge of the screen, or it won't align.

In an ideal world, the liner would be offset by just the right amount, but alas, it is not. Be extra careful on this step!

Nicholas Graham -

Passo 42

Rimuovi e getta via le pellicole di plastica rimaste su tutte e quattro le strisce, scoprendo l'adesivo sottostante.
Ripeti per tutte e quattro le strisce adesive, facendo attenzione a non toccare nessun adesivo.

Passo 43

Posiziona il nuovo schermo sul telaio intermedio e premi saldamente lungo i bordi per 20/30 secondi per assicurarti che l'adesivo faccia presa bene.

If you are noticing a lot of backlight bleed, you probably tightened the back panel too tight, or used the wrong size screws. Back them out to reduce backlight bleed.

Daniel Moler -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Prova delle soluzioni ai problemi di base o chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte Steam Deck per trovare aiuto.

Autore

Carsten Frauenheim

Membro da: 10/03/20

110753 Reputazione

22 commenti

Attempted this tonight after smashing the screen on my deck. Easy to follow and worked flawlessly first time. Thank you

Matt Willis - 15/09/22

On peut mettre un autre ecran OLED ou autre ?

lapartdesanges50 -

Non. Le matériel ne prend en charge qu'un écran très similaire ou identique à l'original.

Forge -

This guide is gold standard. Not once did I think “why didn’t they mention this?”

Lenny Zappa -

Woop Woop Fixed my screen after my anker powerbank fell on it

trevor.davis.1990 -

The exact same thing happened to me

Matonater8 -

Thanks for the guide! I just replaced my Steam deck screen. Guide was simple and straight forward

Manni Live -

I did the tutorial to the exact way explained and it’s working perfectly. Thank you kind souls.

Dallas Hall -

Clear and concise. Worked first time with little to no experience working on electronics. Thank you very much!

James Butler -

Super easy to follow, thanks so much! The comments on each step were also super helpful. <3

Jeff Larsh -

Well well well. I've never attempted this sort of repair before. It worked.

I'd say the only addition I'd make is that if the cracks to the screen are deep the screen might detach from the side in pieces. Be careful. Mine popped away with the pick just fine after lots of application of the i Opener but it split and shattered with the cracks.

Also the adhesive on mine was really hard to melt.

Apart from that it was plain sailing. Just be really careful with those stickers. Keep track of the screws and be super careful to watch where they go when reassembling.

Heed ALL the advice about where and how to remove the connectors.

The audio connector was really fiddly so be really careful with the tweezers. And really pay attention to applying the adhesive because it's a one shot thing. It will not peel off if you misalign.

Michael Foster -

Thanks for the guide, it was clear and easy to follow. I was surprised that there was a difference on how my Steam Deck had a plastic cover on the WiFi module that I had to remove in order to get to the antennae. Not sure if that's an older model thing or not, but just a heads up for anyone who runs into it.

GuyLaDouche -

Valve has made some hardware changes to the Deck recently — we're on it! Expect some guide updates soon. In the meantime, happy fixing, and glad it went well!

Carsten Frauenheim -

Replacement worked out great! Really detailed and easy to follow guide! Thanks!

Jonas oh -

Thank you for the great guide! Just finished my screen replacement a while ago and I'm very happy!

Miro Trendafilov -

after having my deck for a week and steam not honoring the warranty, this is my only way forward, thanks ifixit and F U Steam

Scott Healy -

Just finished! Super easy, only problem the back screws were super tight and hard to remove, after that was super simple!

Matonater8 -

My second on this same device, and someone else attempted first. There seems to be an issue with the touch response, as in we didn't get any the first time I fixed it (second replacement overall), hoping this time is the winner, not sure what to do if this fails again, rechecked all the flex's, measured and verified position of all the screws and mapped them on the way out...step by step it should be flawless, but so should the last time, so we'll see.

Rhawr -

Took 4 hours... followed step by step, screen still doesn't power on, unit is on, makes sounds, haptics work... zero image coming out of screen. Correct screen for the model I have.

So far would not recommend...

Marc Chabot -

Hi, I've followed a similar guide to upgrading to the deckhd screen and I get no display appear. I've tried two mb to screen cables, still the same. Am I missing something?

I get haptics, sound and can connect to external display and it all works. The screen is even responding to touch but no image. Any ideas?

Scott Drayton -

Same to me

Did you solve it? Then tell me how to do it

Stardomiya Park -

Hello, smart friends.

My SteamDeck needed the LCD panel replaced and I carefully read your guide to get the job done.

However, as reported earlier, my SteamDeck also stopped displaying images.

The backlight of the LCD panel is lit and HDMI output is enabled.

My SD has a black metal cover and 64GB of ROM.

Do you have any suggestions?

ONO Smire -