Sostituzione schermo MacBook Pro 16" 2019

Scritto Da: Carsten Frauenheim

Commenti: 79

Sostituzione schermo MacBook Pro 16" 2019

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

1 - 2 ore

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire l'intero gruppo schermo del tuo MacBook Pro per sistemare un display crepato o guasto. Questo gruppo comprende anche i cavi a nastro integrati per lo schermo e la retroilluminazione.

Benché noi abbiamo collaudato con successo questa procedura usando degli schermi di ricambio Apple originali, il chip T2 di Apple può impedire a schermi aftermarket di funzionare correttamente con il risultato che il tuo tuo MacBook Pro potrebbe non avviarsi.

Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro sotto il 25% prima di iniziare. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente.

Strumenti

Ricambi

MacBook Pro 16" (2019) Display Assembly

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, devi disabilitare l'Auto Boot del tuo Mac. Auto Boot accende il tuo Mac non appena apri il coperchio e può essere attivato accidentalmente in fase di smontaggio. Usa questa guida oppure segui le istruzioni abbreviate qui sotto per disabilitare l'Auto Boot. Questo comando potrebbe non funzionare su tutti i Mac.
Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
Ora puoi spegnere in sicurezza il tuo Mac e aprire la copertura inferiore senza accenderlo per sbaglio.
Quando la riparazione è terminata e il tuo Mac è stato riassemblato con successo, abilita nuovamente l'Auto Boot con il comando seguente:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

Macrepair SF - 02/07/19

@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 03/07/19

Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

Dan -

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Kyle B - 22/10/19

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

Cool_Breeze - 19/11/19

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Brian - 07/02/20

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

Nursat b - 26/08/20

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Patrick Machacek - 27/11/20

Not able to do that with damaged screen

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Adrian Vizik - 16/01/21

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

Roberto Enrieu - 22/01/21

running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

result: `AutoBoot %00`

Marek Polák - 01/02/21

Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

Grant Ormsby - 11/03/21

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

tommy404 - 28/04/21

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

hatuxka -

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

bcardanha -

I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

peter sussex -

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

johann beda -

When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

Mircea Comanici -

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

Ed Mease -

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

G Sena -

Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

maël muzelet -

Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

Claire Miesch -

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

Tom Markham -

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

arichard2401 -

For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

Nicholas R Licato -

Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

Cédric Bontems -

After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

webrockers -

I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

webrockers -

Passo 2

Prima di iniziare, spegni completamente e stacca dall'alimentazione il tuo MacBook Pro. Richiudi il display e ribalta il laptop mettendolo a faccia in giù.
Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti che fissano la cover inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
Quattro viti da 3,7 mm
Due viti da 7,3 mm
Fai caso al fatto che le viti escono leggermente angolate: dovrai poi rimontarle nello stesso modo.
Nel corso dell'intera procedura, tieni traccia di ogni vite e accertati che ognuna venga rimessa esattamente dove è stata estratta per evitare danni al dispositivo.

Passo 3

Posiziona e quindi premi una ventosa vicino al bordo anteriore della cover inferiore, tra i fori delle viti.
Tira la ventosa giusto quanto basta ad aprire una piccola fessura sotto la cover inferiore.

Passo 4

Fai scorrere la punta di un plettro di apertura nella fessura che hai appena creato sotto la cover inferiore.
Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo più vicino e quindi fino a metà del lato del MacBook Pro.
Questa azione consente di sganciare la prima delle clip nascoste che fissano il case inferiore. Dovresti sentire le clip che si sbloccano.

I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.

Eric Gauderman -

Passo 5

Ripeti il passo precedente dal lato opposto, usando il tuo plettro di apertura per sganciare la seconda clip.

Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.

Eric Gauderman -

Passo 6

Solleva il bordo anteriore della cover (il lato opposto alla cerniera del display) giusto quanto basta per poter infilare la punta delle dita e avere una buona presa.
In questa fase si dovrebbero sganciare, se non l'hanno già fatto in precedenza, due ulteriori clip nascoste vicino al centro della cover.
Non alzare la cover più di 2-3 cm e non cercare di rimuoverla già ora.

Passo 7

Tira la cover inferiore con decisione per farla scorrere verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandola dal lato con le cerniere) per separare l'ultima delle clip che trattiene il case.
Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
Tira in piano e non verso l'alto.
Questa azione può richiedere molta forza.

This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.

James Andariese - 22/04/21

Thank you for this comment! 🙏
For me it was the same way, wasn't able to get enough grip to pull sufficiently - but gently levering near the hinge with a spudger to "push" the bottom panel away worked well!

BavarianBamboo -

There is no pulling required. Use an opening pick or a spudger at the hinge area to gently and easily nudge the bottom panel off the clips. It should be effortless.

Marc Jacobson -

If you do pull on the bottom case be careful of where you place the hand supporting the Mac, otherwise you'll make a blood sacrifice to the Mac gods! I placed my other hand too close to the feet on the bottom case and while removing it, the sharp edge of the bottom case sliced into my thumb.

o355 -

Passo 8

Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
Per rimontare il case:
Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip a scorrimento vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere la cover verso la cerniera. Lo scorrimento si dovrebbe arrestare non appena le clip si agganciano.
Quando le clip a scorrimento sono perfettamente agganciate e la cover sembra correttamente allineata, premi con decisione la cover stessa per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste. Dovresti sentire lo scatto quando le clip si bloccano.

Passo 9

Stacca e rimuovi lo sticker isolante che copre la scheda della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica più vicino alla batteria stessa.
Se questa copertura isolante non si stacca facilmente, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante e quindi prova di nuovo.

Passo 10

Stacca il nastro adesivo che dovrebbe coprire il connettore del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.

Passo 11

Usa uno spudger per sbloccare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo dati della scheda della batteria

Passo 12

Scollega il cavo dati della scheda della batteria facendolo scorrere fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Fai scorrere il cavo parallelamente alla scheda logica e non tirarlo verso l'alto.

들어올려서 떨어지면 어떻게 해야하나요…ㅠㅠ

obbamanse87 -

Passo 13

Stacca tutti i pezzi di nastro adesivo che dovrebbero coprire il connettore del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
Alza e sblocca l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore all'estremità opposta del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.

Be very careful - the locking flap is very easy to break.

Vaughan -

I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

Carlos Morales -

Passo 14

Fai scorrere fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda il cavo dati della scheda della batteria, quindi rimuovilo completamente.
Stai attento non rimontare questo cavo al contrario o capovolto.

I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

Carlos Morales -

Putting a mark on the cable will be helpful when reinstalling so you don't put it backwards or upside down.

maccentric -

This isn't necessary for many repairs, such as the Screen Replacement. I just lift the cable out of the way enough to do the next few steps and leave it attached.

maccentric -

Passo 15

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la vite a testa piatta da 6,7mm che fissa il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria.

Passo 16

Usa uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando così la batteria stessa.
Solleva il connettore quanto basta per tenerlo separato dal suo zoccolo mentre lavori. Se il connettore facesse accidentalmente contatto con la sua presa, il tuo MacBook Pro potrebbe danneggiarsi.

Passo 17

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 3,5 mm che fissano la cover disposta sul cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo.
Rimuovi la cover del cavo flessibile della scheda del display.

Thats actually T4

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

Maybe your T4 is worn? I had to use T3. For the next step too.

maccentric -

T3 for me as well.

Marc Jacobson -

Passo 18

Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le due viti da 1,7 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda dello schermo.
Rimuovi la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda del display.

Again T4 Torx

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

Passo 19

Solleva e stacca il cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo dal suo zoccolo per scollegarlo dalla scheda stessa.

Passo 20

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 2,0 mm dalle cover delle cerniere (due viti su ciascun lato).

Passo 21

Rimuovi entrambe le cover delle cerniere.

Passo 22

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la singola vite da 2,9 mm che fissa il gruppo cavi di antenna.

On the i5 model bundle is on the right side of the one fan

Bernie Liu -

Passo 23

Scollega tutti e tre i cavi di antenna sollevandoli uno a uno dai rispettivi zoccoli.
Fai scorrere le pinzette o l'estremità piatta del tuo spudger sotto ciascun cavo finché non arrivi vicino allo zoccolo e quindi ruota l'attrezzo o fai leva delicatamente per eseguire la disconnessione.
Per ricollegare ciascun cavo, allinea il connettore direttamente sopra il suo zoccolo e quindi premilo giù finché non scatta in posizione.

Passo 24

Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 3,3 mm che fissano la scheda dello schermo.
Prima di rimontare queste viti:
Accertati che il cavo flessibile della scheda del display sia sulla parte superiore della scheda stessa e non sia rimasto intrappolato sotto di essa.

Needed a T4, not T5 on mine. It’s unclear if it’s my bits or my laptop that disagree with this step’s directions. If your T5 doesn’t fit though, don’t force it. See if a T4 fits. If it’s like mine, it will fit perfectly with no play.

James Andariese - 22/04/21

It was T5 for me

maccentric -

T4 for mine.

John Velimesis -

Passo 25

Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P2 per rimuovere le sedici viti da 1,5 mm che fissano il gruppo di antenna (otto per ciascun lato).
Queste piccole viti si possono danneggiare facilmente, quindi applica una pressione decisa e costante mentre le rimuovi.

Before this step, note those two yellow circles (copper) towards the inside of the laptop and next to the red circles around the antenna screws. They are the result of two T4s that were removed.

You can see the black screw heads in Step 24 and they’re just copper rings with no screw in Step 25.

There are two additional screws along this row which will need to be removed. Once done, the assembly they were holding down will be loose and your antenna assembly will also feel more free. Gently pry it upwards. It will not require much force. Significantly less than I was trying to apply to it before realizing the instructions were wrong.

If your antenna assembly won’t budge after following the directions, this is what’s missing.

James Andariese - 22/04/21

Hey James! I'm not sure which screws you’re talking about. Are these screws in addition to the four already marked in Step 24?

Carsten Frauenheim - 22/04/21

The instruction is correct, these strip easily! Use a lot of light and care!

I stripped one of the 16 screws and that was the end of that fastening point, I had to use physical force to break it off the assembly. Miraculously, the assembly appears to be still functional

Fixit Connexit -

Passo 26

Usa un plettro di apertura per staccare il gruppo antenna e separarlo dal MacBook Pro.
Fai attenzione ai delicati cavi a nastro nella sezione centrale. Evita di far scorrere il plettro da un lato all'altro per non danneggiare i cavi stessi.

Passo 27

Rimuovi con attenzione il gruppo antenna mentre contemporaneamente fai passare il gruppo dei cavi di antenna da sotto il dissipatore di calore.
In fase di rimontaggio, metti insieme delicatamente il gruppo dei cavi e guidalo sotto il tubo di calore nella sua posizione corretta sulla scheda. Se necessario, usa i tuoi attrezzi per aiutarti a guidare i cavi lungo il passaggio, ma non forzarli mai.

When reassembling this, don't forget to have the display board's cables that go to the display be under the antenna assembly. I screwed in 16 screws before realizing this!

Michael Yin -

Passo 28

Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 3,9 mm che fissano le molle della cover del cavo del display.

Passo 29

Usa un cacciavite Torx T8 per rimuovere le due viti da 5,0 mm da ciascuna cerniera (quattro viti in totale).
Ciascuna cerniera è tenuta da una terza vite, che per ora dovresti lasciare dov'è.

Passo 30

Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le due viti da 1,5 mm che fissano la staffa di copertura dei connettori del digitizer del Touch Bar e dell'angolo di apertura del coperchio del laptop.

In der Darstellung wurde das MacBook gedreht.

sunshine -

Passo 31

Con delle pinzette, fai scorrere la staffa verso il bordo laterale del MacBook Pro finché l'intaglio presente sulla parte esterna non si libera dalla linguetta di bloccaggio sulla scheda logica.
Rimuovi la staffa.

Passo 32

Scollega il cavo del sensore di apertura dello schermo facendo leva sotto di esso per sollevarlo dalla scheda logica.

Passo 33

Utilizza un cacciavite Pentalobe P2 per rimuovere la vite lunga 1,9 mm che fissa il sensore dell'angolo del coperchio.

Passo 34

Utilizza delle pinzette o le dita per sollevare il sensore dell'angolo del coperchio dal telaio e liberarlo dal perno metallico.
Rimuovi il sensore all'angolo del coperchio.

Passo 35

In fase di rimontaggio, per prima cosa rimetti al loro posto le viti senza serrarle. Puoi regola la posizione dello schermo finché non è correttamente centrato e allineato lungo entrambi i lati. A questo punto, serra completamente le viti.
Se il tuo schermo cigola o si inceppa quando lo apri, allenta le viti delle cerniere e regola l'allineamento. Accertati che lo schermo non sia disposto troppo in avanti, perché potrebbe toccare contro la scocca quando si apre e si chiude.
Volendo, puoi aggiungere del frenafiletti blu alle viti per impedire che si allentano con il passare del tempo.

Passo 36

Se prevedi di riutilizzare lo schermo, aprilo e applica un pezzo di nastro adesivo sul vetro subito sopra ciascuna cerniera. In questo modo proteggerai il vetro da eventuali graffi nei passi successivi.
Apri completamente lo schermo e disponi il tuo MacBook Pro in equilibrio su un fianco.

Passo 37

Usa un cacciavite Torx T8 per rimuovere le due viti da 5,0 mm rimaste a tenere in posizione le cerniere (una per ciascuna cerniera).
Rimuovi per ultima la vite più in alto, usando una mano per tenere insieme le due metà del MacBook Pro in modo che non si separino e possano cadere.

I perform this step, with all my MacBook screen replacements, with the main body keyboard down on my workbench, and the screen assembly hanging off and supported by my legs. This way, when I take the screws out, I don't need to worry about the main body of the laptop, and the screen assembly does not go anywhere. I have much finer control over lifting and removing the screen assembly. This prevents any instability and prevents the hinges from accidentally hitting any components on the logic board, which can cause severe damage on some models.

Marc Jacobson -

Passo 38

Afferra saldamente sia lo schermo sia il corpo principale del MacBook Pro. Ciascuna di queste due parti potrebbe cadere improvvisamente nel corso di questo passo.
Spingi le due metà del MacBook Pro insieme in modo che le cerniere si possano sollevare al di fuori dei loro alloggiamenti nello chassis.
Allontana il corpo principale del MacBook Pro mentre tiri lo schermo verso di te per staccarlo.

Passo 39

Rimuovi lo schermo.

Conclusione

Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.

Autore

Carsten Frauenheim

Membro da: 10/03/20

110750 Reputazione

20 commenti

Anybody know the screen part# or where to find it?

Macrepair SF - 23/09/20

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

haddad biadja - 10/11/20

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

Jean Christophe BOURBON - 16/11/20

Is it possible to boot up the machine without the screen attached (and use external displays only)?

Pravin Jayasinghe - 15/12/20

yes USBC to HDMI

jim -

Great guide, covers the details nicely. I would add that the nvram command no longer works as of firmware in Big Sur. We don’t have too much trouble with that, however. Shut down the machine, and make sure to not open the lid or do anything else until the battery is disconnected.

I will also note that we’ve never had a T3 screwdriver not strip unless we cut the tip off the torx; the screws Apple uses never seem to be happy until that is done. Haven’t see anyone else complain about that, though, so maybe it’s just us!

In case anyone is wondering: as long as your part is OEM, it shouldn’t give any issues with the T2 chip. Most assemblies are not sold with the screen angle sensor, however, so that needs to be transferred to the new assembly. That’s just a matter of unscrewing the one screw that holds it to the clutch and then attaching it to the new one in the same way.

help - 25/02/21

My Macbook is space gray and the display you guys have is grey.The description is clear but i don’t think i’ll be able to replace it by myself.I better make an effort and buy another one.

mtffreire - 21/03/21

My screen gets glitch lines but only if I open it up past 25-30 degrees. So I’m thinking it is something mechanical with the hinge and the connecting wires. any insight?

gregg curtis - 22/04/21

I started getting horizontal lines 2 mm apart on my screen. Lines would vanish when screen was closed to a smaller angle (30 degrees) and then reappear, when opening wider. Also experienced occasions ghosting of images or overlapping app windows. Took the MBP 16 to the Apple Store for further diagnosis. Techs indicated that it could be a loose display cable. They offered to check for a possible loose display cable and re-seat it. If not resolved, said display would have to be replaced. For what it’s worth. (Apple offline and online diagnostics performed all indicated no other hardware problems, with the GPU, etc. Problem seemed to be diagnosed. Attaching an external display is also helpful in diagnostic of the GPU. The Apple Store near me, quoted $599 for the Apple display and $79 for install.

freaman - 22/05/21

Great guide. It doesn't include the replacement of the lid angle sensor. I had to disconnect it from the old screen and re-attach it to the new one. I also got really worried because it didn't turn on when I first tried to restart. I had to plug it in and hold the power button for a few seconds before it came back on. Definitely gave me a freight.

owenbrewer4 -

Good morning all !

the screen of my Macbook Pro 16 "from 2019 has just given up. The screen remains black despite all the attempts by Apple technicians. I would like to use it without the original one, leaving it hanging as I used to habit on my two external screens. Do you think it is possible to start it without its screen connected and at the same time take advantage of the speakers, the USB C sockets, the touch bar, and the trackpad Thank you in advance!

Élie BINGUE -

Good repair guide! I just swapped out my display with no issues. I'd consider adding the step to swap out the screen angle sensor, as mine (and most replacement displays, apparently) didn't come with a new one and it had to be swapped over. FWIW my screen was showing as over-saturated with blown-out highlights, some ghosting of background windows through the front window, strange shadows from smaller windows--tilting the screen to mostly closed would make it better, but not fix it entirely. Brand New display sourced from Ebay ($550) fixed it right up. Thanks for the great guide!

Stephen Wright -

Are there any apple boobytraps like they have done with the serialization of the iPhone parts?

Shaady Abdel Nasser -

This guide was perfect! Just completed a screen replacement and this guide was gold from start to finish. Cheers!

JerryR -

how to calibrate the screen after replacing?

tamike -

I followed the guide to the letter but now the machine won’t turn on. Obviously I think somethings wrong with the battery connect but I have no idea what. Any suggestions?

Chad Verity -

When I finished mine I had the same issue, and was very worried that I would have to take it apart again. But I held the power button down for a bit longer than usual, and it eventually turned on. Maybe yours will do the same.

gluethje76 -

How do you run the System Configuration that Apple requires for the T2 security chip?

Steve Rea -

I bought the "Apple MacBook Pro A2141 16" 2019 LCD Screen" on EBay for $300 USD.

I bought the "GogoFix Precision Pro Aluminum Alloy Screwdriver Tool Kit" on Amazon for $20 USD. (ALL the tools you need).

You do NOT need the "TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver". The regular "T8 Torx" screwdriver in the kit above is what you need.

These instructions are truly amazing, and I want to thank the author very much! <3

My only advice is buy 15 small baggies, and label them with the step number of the instructions as you place screws in the bags.

Paul Wiens -

An ice cube tray or bead sorting tray is an easy way to keep track of the screws.

maccentric -